direct drive Archives

A direct drive extruder drives filament through the extruder assembly and hotend/nozzle as a unit. Benefit, driving flexible filament for better extrusion.

June 20, 2024October 21, 2024

TPU Post Processing

Testing, Slicer Settings, Heat and Bed Adhesion

TPU Action – Post Processing

Sprite Printing, TPU Post Processing Action

Max Neo Upgrades: Post Process Part of the TPU Action Series

Now, let’s discuss the ‘post process’ or TPU Post Processing after completing the physical upgrade of the Max Neo 3D Printer.

Moving on to the exciting part, we will delve into the settings, the testing process post-upgrade, and the outcomes of our efforts. As a sneak peek, we will explore the new ‘refurbed Max Neo’ (second machine), including its unboxing, post-setup testing, and transition to PETG filament for creating ‘usable’ or functional parts. All of this and more will be covered in our next article. So, we have addressed the reason behind the upgrade, which is primarily to enhance quality. Improving the quality issues has been and continues to be the main motivation for this upgrade. Additionally, the parts we have acquired for the upgrades aim to increase our success rate when using TPU filaments. Now, let’s get into the testing process.

Downloads: Firmware, Slicers, Web Apps and more:

Creality Links Suggestions (links removed if blocked, do a search for the following in that cause)
Creality Wiki
Ender 3 Max Neo: Product Firmware and Slicer
Sprite Pro Extruder: Sprite Extruder Pro
Creality Motherboard: Motherboard Firmware v4.2.7
Ecosystem – Sonic Pad: Creality Sonic Pad

Make Your Own Printables –
Creality Cloud (newer printers): Cloud 3d Printer Management
Tinkercad

Settings, Printables: Pre-made Royalty/Royalty-Free –
All3dp Slicer Settings: All 3DP Settings
All3dp Support: All 3DP Support Settings
printables.com/model
Thingiverse
Cults3d

Let’s Test, Power On The Machine and Go

Earlier we discussed the hardware upgrades and software required for the motherboard. Now, the real test begins… (drum roll please). Sharing the 40,000 foot view, we can cover slicer settings, quality improvements and how the machine is running TPU today. Ultimately, we will cover the TPU Post Processing steps at a higher level here, while providing detailed specifics in a stand alone feature article. Perhaps, we will cover each setting and how it affects print quality overall. So, we have completed the teardown, upgrade, and rebuild activities. Ready the machine, perform pre-launch checks, ensure all connections are properly seated, motor connectors and belts are connected and plug it in. Toggle the power switch ‘on’ and start making stuff. TPU Post Processing is a go!

Starting with PLA first, after upgrades, the out-of-the-box settings are fairly accurate. A generous e-step setting (e-step refers to the distance the direct drive will push the material into the extruder heating element is recommended. Lesson one learned: a tight fit, or concise grouping of slicer, motherboard/motherboard software and direct drive extruder can improve the quality of TPU prints.

Creality Ecosystem and TPU Processing

Keep in mind, the ‘ecosystem’ described above, works to apply the correct pressure, volume of materials, heat and adhesion for TPU filament as it passes through the direct drive extruder. Continuing on, each subsequent print and setting tweak can improve the target goals forming a quality print. Beare in mind, we are looking for improvement round-over-round of testing, inching us closer to a seamless print. PLA is fairly easy to work with and can run OOB (out-of-box) with OOB settings. Despite mismatched hardware flaws from previous builds, this new hardware runs the latest firmware logics, producing orderly prints. Additionally, with each print, make sure the printer has been leveled, aligned and bed plate cleaned. The goal is high quality TPU prints, creating that ‘happy path’.

Logically speaking, when moving through baseline testing, it is important to reduce flaws and misprints. In our case, this involves establishing a new baseline measurement of quality. The baseline serves as a guide for what to expect when using an out-of-the-box (OOTB) solution for PLA manufacturing or hobby printing. The goal is to eliminate flaws, blips and globs that can occur during the printing process. This article assumes that the machine purchased is shipped with necessary parts and that these parts are properly installed either installed either by the retailer or supply house.

Take a breather, you deserve it. it’s a nice feeling to complete the build. The easy part, for all intense and purposes is now over.

Build On Upgrade Successes

Generally speaking, machines come with a MicroSD card with some preinstalled printables, in our case Boaty and Bunny. These test prints will help test pre-sliced builds, slicer tests (more calibration tests) such as adhesion, temperature, flowrate, etc. The timeframe for testing effort covers more than 2 weeks (time-lapsed, of course) of work. In between coding and other work, that ‘happy path’ quickly moved us from basic PLA calibration and testing to minimal adhesion issues. PLA blips were corrected with filament flow changes, an increase in temperature at the extruder tip and reduction of heat at the bed. Note, turn fans off. Fans or cooling filament, TPU and PETG require high temps for optimal extrusion and bed adhesion. Bed plate temps vary depending on filament type, but note that cooling the filament is out of scope. It’s more of a hassle and does more harm than good.

If I haven’t explicitly state this in my previous articles, simply removing the fans or programmatically turning them off at the slicer helps maintain higher quality prints day over day. During the Bowden to Direct Drive conversion, the fans were removed for the formal TPU run. They were also nerf’ed for this build, as the quality print quality over consecutive prints is not sufficient for an ideal manufacturing process with 10 or more prints. A better solution to note here, reduce fan power (or turn them off) as TPU and PETG are finicky filaments.

Reduced Filament Heat, Not Good For Business

Simply reducing heat is not enough, the cooling process can actually lead to poor bed adhesion issues, which we will address. However, our main focus is on eliminating any shipping or physical/hardware issues that may arise during the startup process and initial PLA prints. When it comes to PLA testing, we need to answer the following questions: Did we install the parts correctly? Does the filament passthrough the extruder smoothly? Are any anomalies in the prints due to hardware or software issues or are they the new norm? In simple terms, does the machine and all it’s parts function as expected? The answer should be yes! Below, we have outlined the steps to ensure everything is working properly. Additional text and images will be included to provide further clarification for those who need visual aids, so stay tuned!

Post Upgrades, PLA Settings and Prints

At Rest

First Print

Cylinder Test

Case Test

Camera (Webcam)

TPU Print

TPU Print Second View

Clean Up

Adhesion Problems

Filament Weight

Midnight Run

Smart Pad Crash

Sticking with moderate sized prints for larger sizes, the Max Neo is the largest bed plate available, quality, clean up effort and repeatability are all key factors in successful 3D printing. As they say, all’s well that ends well. Initially, PLA filaments ran smoothly, but bed adhesion issues arose when transitioning to TPU filaments, becoming a sore spot. It seems that all good things must come to an end (but we carry on). Work is ongoing, with bed adhesion remaining a concern. Test are ongoing as we search for the optimal TPU printing environment including machine settings, bed adhesion plates, temperatures, printing speed, e-steps, etc.

What has helped here is assuming users are using quality TPU filaments and a quality bed plate (textured or smooth) glass. Simple school glues, spray adhesives, and/or painter’s tape can quickly correct adhesion issues. Later on, we switched to using the Creality PEI bed plate and school glue for TPU and PETG prints, eliminating the need additional adhesives and their associated costs. Below, you will find a few of our successful prints, as well as some disasters, including late-night smartphone case print cycles and the decision to incorporate the new PEI bed surface.

Bed Adhesion, Sonic Pad Swap, TPU Settings Rollout

Duramic Run

Skewed Results

Stop The Press

TPU Run

Prep Surface

Peel PEI Surface

Bed Film Placed

Bed Ready

Adhesion crisis averted, we can now delve into the new Creality V4.6 Slicer. Download it now if you can or choose to do so. The slicer comes packed full of new mix settings and reliable ‘custom’ settings that we use during the transition from PLA to TPU. Custom filament tweaks on the slicer get the job done. These settings serve as the gate approval system, easily covering baseline testing and PLA-to-TPU mashups. It’s important to note that the slicer is crucial, along with the other hardware and software elements included in this build.

Ultimately, upon reflection, I believe this is where the success of this build truly shines. The success of TPU Post Processing depends on the slicer, its customization and support settings. Moving forward, despite previous builds having only moderate success, the new Slicer is excellent and quite serviceable. I must mention the failures of the Sonic Pad here – we have decided to forgo the Sonic Pad for now and instead opt for the Wifi 2.0 boxes or manual printing using the Max Neo MicroSD and LCD interfaces at the machine. Honestly, it’s the build ecosystem the firmware, slicer, motherboard, and Sprite Pro extruder that has allowed us to achieve a level of quality that we were unable to attain in the previous builds. More on this will be discussed in another article.

Accessories, Bed Adhesion and Latest Settings

Moving on from the slicer settings and Sonic Pad issues, I decided to use the Wifi Box 2.0, with latest firmware to improve creature comfort while printing. This allows me to print from a seated position at my desk eliminating the need to constantly go back and forth between my desk and the printer for tasks like creation, slicing, MicroSD management, and selecting print. Additionally, I added a camera to work as a webcam, enabling me to print untethered or engage in hobby-level production. This upgrade can be likened to a ‘power up’ in Super Mario Bros. providing enhanced functionality. The upgraded webcam allows for seamless printing from the slicer to the printer using the Wifi Box.

We will address the challenges of using a Wyze webcam in a separate article. This article will provide a step-by-step guide for converting your camera. We will also include videos and the best guides to follow when converting your Wyze camera to a webcam. In conclusion, Wyze offers an affordable alternative to other webcams on the market. By using a simple fix, developer-built code, and easy button combinations, you can easily convert your Wyze camera into a webcam. Now, let’s move on to TPU prints.

Various TPU Filaments, Smartphone Case Tests, Clean Up

Grey Duramic

Grey Case

Parts At Once

Creality TPU

TPU Objects

TPU Container

Tertiary Case

TPU Cleanup

Legacy Case

Cleaned Up

TPU Comparison

Production Variation

Thirdly, let’s discuss adhesion. As as we progress through TPU testing or post processing, PLA and TPU prints have ‘adhesion issues such as peeling or damage that appears to be caused by severe temperature changes. This is a good opportunity to address adhesion settings. Balancing bed temp and extrusion temperature is an ongoing testing process that you will become very familiar with when working with 3D print production. Think of it as a blend of art and science when working with 3D printers, printables and open source or custom designs.

Overall, if you don’t pay attention to adhesion and temperatures, things can quickly become difficult, especially with production variations using TPU filaments and even more so with PETG filaments. It’s important to maintain control, and a small amount of adhesive can make a big difference. With the upgraded motherboard, extruder, PEI build plate, and proper adhesion using school glue, you can have better control. Pay attention to settings, especially when it comes to support (use a generous amount for support at the plate) and bed plate adhesion like using the raft selection.

Temperature Improvements and Optimal Settings

Ideal or optimal slicer settings work to complement a brim/auto brim or raft adhesion type. With the addition of what has been tested to be the best bed adhesion type… temps at 250 degrees, bed at 0 degrees, (fan at 0) and speed at 50%. Three products were tested: heavy strength spray adhesive, painters tape and simple school glue. Testing suggestions, again, not required, but more as a release agent. Now, the opposite can be said for PETG, which we will cover in another article. Those settings are still being worked out. As you can imagine, working through the TPU settings took about ~2 weeks of effort, PETG has a much longer testing effort.

Today, we have gathered and processed with what may be the optimal TPU Slicer settings. A new camera position, guided by fewer misprints in our testing efforts, has been implemented to reduce production flaws like blips, or globs, traveling over the print. We have managed to nail down or complete what feels like the final tweaks for TPU printables. Therefore, before we introduce PETG (which can be challenging on its own), we have minimized difficulties and ensured high quality. Before we transition away from TPU, I would like to highlight both the successes and failures in achieving quality. We are gradually transitioning from hardware/software upgrades to different filament types such as PLA, TPU, and now PETG. We are exploring factors such as heat, bed temperature, support and bed adhesion methods.

Wrap up and Conclusion

PETG filaments introduce a range of new adhesion issues, making clean up a nightmare. Additionally, while the quality of prints has improved in terms of smoothness and clarity, all prints require some form of ‘final processing’ or deburring. To build on the success of TPU printing, we have invested in additional tools such as Klein Tools Flush Cutters and AFA Deburring Tool Set. These purchases aim to enhance post-print output, with the goal of significantly improving final production or shippable pieces with typical manufacturing process (design, construction, production, shipping).

Finally, at the end here, we touched on the TPU Post Processing setup. Let’s share some more images for those who enjoy visuals, think of it as a snapshot of ‘where we are today’… one click printing, high quality prints, replicable from PLA to PETG, camera, and wifi box 2.0. Let’s cover the initial PLA testing, the TPU filament torture test (array), and final print slicer/WiFi Box settings on the next episode of TPU Action!

Slicer Tweaks, Latest Prints

Web Cam

Test Builds

New TPU Filament

Matching Tool Station

WiFi 2.0 Box

Dual WiFi Boxes running multiple machines

Matching WiFi Box

Full Setup

Revisit previous posts in this series which cover the new filament spool upgrade, upgradable parts such as hardware, accessories, filament and current pricing. All of these items can be found on the Shopping List. Alternatively, you can read about the upgrade process and the successes achieved along the way.

June 16, 2024September 27, 2024

TPU Upgrade Process

Rebuild, Direct Drive, Build Plate and Tech Upgrades

TPU Action – Upgrade Process

Max Neo Upgrades: The Upgrade Process, Part of the TPU Action Series

Now, let’s discuss the Creality Max Neo 3D Printer Upgrade – unboxing, teardown, install of upgrade parts. Our goal is to improve TPU scalability and production quality. As a side note, we received a refurbished Max Neo and will cover the PETG settings and troubleshooting process in our next article.

We have already discussed the reasons for upgrading the parts and quality benefits it brings. We have purchased the necessary parts for the updates to increase our success rates. Now, let’s move on to the physical upgrade.

Unbox Upgrades

Let’s get started, shall we? We have got our boxes and can officially begin the TPU Upgrade process. All parts have been unboxed, including the new extruder with direct drive that features an easy-to-install quick connect with locks on the print head. Additionally, we have the rail cart for bolting the extruder to the rail and powering it with the axis motors. Next, we have the new silent motherboard, which is necessary for installing the Creality Sprite Extruder Pro kit. Secondly, we have the new bed plate ready to go. Once the process is complete, we will test the machine first without the upgrade and then with it to ensure everything is printing smoothly.

Unbox Parts, Printer Teardown and Disassembly References

Motherboard v4.2.7

WiFi Box 2.0

Sprite Extruder Pro Kit

Sprite Extruder Pro

Power Down

Unplug

Prep Screen & Unplug

Disconnect Motors

Starting the TPU upgrade process? Let’s begin by removing all power cords. If you have a Wifi 2.0 Box or Sonic Pad, those should also be powered down and their cords removed. I prefer to start fresh with no cords. Now, we have our tech tools. I will post a link to the shopping list following this post. If you have the original set of tools provided by Creality at purchase, those will work just fine.

Begin Teardown, Be Careful and Take Your Time

Let’s dismantle the printer by taking apart the extruder and the extruder rail cart. After removing a few bolts, we should have the printing area cleared. It’s worth noting that this particular printer has previously been upgraded making the direct drive easily accessible. For more information on the original direct drive build you can refer to the Ender Teardown, Rebuild – 5 Part Series. In the series, you will see the filament being removed, power cables unclipped, e-touch and cable connections from the extruder to the board, bolts being removed, cart being taken out, and extruder being detached. The printing area should now be free of extruder parts and the rail cart

Look around the 3D printer frame, specifically the drivers, those should be unclipped as well. I also like to disconnect the screen here. There is a clip on the back: the ribbon connector can be unclipped and set aside. Now, gently lift and turn the machine clockwise, placing the machine on its right side or screen side (which has been removed for this exact reason).

The top screw does not need to be removed here; it is one of 4 or 5 screws that hold the motherboard to the base Start by unscrewing the right-hand side first (motherboard side), being careful to unplug the 0.10 A computer fan clip, and then move on to the left side (power side). Ribbons, cords, and wires of various shades and colors may have shifted around a bit, especially in this case, as the printer was previously upgraded. Therefore, electrical wires or shield tape may be wound tightly. Be gentle with the cover screws, as they will be used again in approximately 15 – 30 minutes.

Unbox and Preparation

Motherboard v4.2.7

WiFi Box 2.0

Sprite Extruder Pro Kit

Sprite Extruder Pro

Power Down

Unplug

Prep Screen & Unplug

Disconnect Motors

Take a look around, assume if you have tilted the machine clockwise on it’s side by roughly 90 degrees and removed the screws. On the left, we are examining power management, and on the right, control.

Equally important, a visual inspection will reveal hot glue on all or most of the motherboard connectors, depending on the condition of the machine.

If the machine is new or refurbished, hot glue is common, so don’t be alarmed!

This is to be expected for Creality machines. We will begin removing the glue using a spudger, hemostats and/or gloved hand. In this process, we start from right to left, starting with the screen connector (rainbow ribbon), the top connector marked GV IN G OUT, the mini two-wire connectors (grey and the black axis wires), the fan wires (yellow and blue), and the red, yellow and black harness. Ignore the power wires for now, we will be address those in the third step. Next, we will move to the top of the board to disconnect the X, Y, Z and E black wire harnesses. You’re almost there, you can do this!

Disassemble Extruder and Motherboard

Internal Fan

Unscrew Power Cover

Power Unit

Unscrew Housing

Motherboard

Hot Glue Removal

Start Right-to-left

Disconnect Cables

Fans & Power

Disconnect Power

All Connections

Remove Board

Let’s move on to the green locks next. Using a flat head screwdriver, start from right to left to unscrew and remove the red and black wires. Voila! We are now 50% complete. The glue removal process usually takes the longest, making it challenging to navigate the board space. Let’s unscrew the board from the frame (unscrew the two bolts on the front), leaving the last screw on the top, removing the top from the frame. Unscrew the motherboard and set it aside for safekeeping or for use in another refurbished printer in the future. Take a moment to check around the frame, organize the screws and bolts (I recommend using a piece of paper and a Sharpie). Draw a box label it, and tape the hardware screws securely.

Motherboard and Extruder Installation

Straightaway, let’s start by removing the new motherboard from its package, if you have not already done so, and placing it into the motherboard (control) space. Additionally, make sure to safely connect the USB and MicroSD connectors on the board first, then align the board with the appropriate screw mounts on the board. Once the screws are in place, the board should sit firmly in place, secured and ready to go!

Reassemble 3D Printer, Upgrade Reference

Attach New Board

Left-to-right

+ and –

Fans and Motors

Upper Cables

Seat Cables

Okay, in reverse, the TPU Upgrade process continues with the new Sprite Extruder raw wire ends. Start by securing the green motherboard locks first, moving from left to right. The power from the power unit should be on the side of the board, with alternative red/back wires. Make sure to read the labels to ensure the correct landing spot for those power wires. Next, connect the yellow/blue fan and the red, yellow, and black wires just below the fan connector. Moving right replace the x-, y- , z-, TB, TH, and GV IN G OUT connections. Now, connect the screen ribbon. Double-check all fittings and secure the green locks on the board to ensure a snug fit.

Finally, when working on the motherboard, let’s replace the screws on the power unit side carefully. Run the wires through the notched metal railing and secure the front bolts for the control cover, bottom screws, and the top screws. This is a critical area where you must exercise caution, as the cables can easily break. Take your time here.

Post Installation Checks, Screws, Belts and More

Continuing on, secure the Pro Extruder Kit. Lift, turn, and place the printer in its center. All wires, ribbons and connectors are ready for the new drive. Next, install the extruder and fit it to the assembly cart. Thirdly, connect the e-touch ribbon cable, seat the cable so that is snug. Fourthly, seat the red hot wire creating a connection between the hot end and the extruder. It may have a tight fit, so now is the time to place the wire while the extruder is loose on the cart. Secure the extruder to the cart mounting point by placing the screws and tightening them down. Moreover, ensure a secure and tight connection, firmly setting the drive in place!

Next, if you machine has an E-touch, screw it to the provided mounting hardware. Ensure a good fit by checking the orientation and making sure the extruder card fits snug on the rail. Securely attach the axis cables or rubber power drive belts. The belts slides into place on the backside of the assembly cart). This should be loose from the if dismantling process. Firmly, attach axis cables, or rubber power drive belts. Undoubtedly, the belts slide into place (two slots cut out on the assembly cart) on the backside, if you remember during the teardown process. Next, loosen the X/Y axis drive belts using the red knobs, one on the front and the other on the right side. Now, tighten those knobs by turning them clockwise to apply tension to the belts and cart.

Extruder, Power On and Level

Seat Extruder

Power On

Hone & Level

Replace drive connectors, which are key for stable linear and vertical movement. Reference tags will indicate connectors for controlling the x and y drive motors. Install the extruder ribbon by tucking it behind the two black plastic static tabs located just above the connector saddle and ribbon locks.

Now the real test begins… the TPU Upgrade process continues to the next round! The series progresses, read more about TPU Post Processing or go back to the beginning with TPU Action. Finally, we will cover the initial settings, slicer, accessories and final settings in the next installment, so stick around. If you’re new to the series you can revisit upgrade parts on our affiliate shopping area and review pricing, upgraded hardware reviews, accessories and filament essential for this build. Alternatively, you can skip ahead, review article upgrade parts and accessories in the series opening.

June 13, 2024September 27, 2024

TPU Upgrade Action

Full Install, System Inspection and Testing

TPU(Thermoplastic Polyurethane) Action – Sprite Extruder, Motherboard and Prints In Flight

TinkerCad Design - TPU Box with compartments

Max Neo Upgrades: The Parts, the pain and TPU Series

Covering TPU Action, starting with the removal, adding modifications, clean-up effort, settings for successful prints and final production.

Why Upgrade, Pieces and Parts

Let’s start with the why. Why upgrade your Max Neo board, extruder etc.? The easy answer is successful TPU prints. Prints of high quality, with low errors (blips and globs), working usable prints and again, TPU. How long did the upgrades take, i.e. duration, to upgrade the required parts for successful prints? In short, the installation took 30 – 60 minutes, with tweaks taking an additional 2 weeks. The time to achieve successful and consistent prints was 2.5 weeks. This includes time for troubleshooting, adding/removing parts, multiple test prints (which might slightly affect the duration), and finalizing print settings within the Creality Slicer.

Slicer and Pre-Print Preview

Tinkercad Design

Creality Slicer 4.3.8

Slicer Pre-Build

If you have not checked out TINKERCAD yet, please do. This is where my drawings, ideas and digital designs come to life. It’s a web based application, specifically CAD (Computer Aided Design) software, used in the maker space and ideally in the global manufacturing industry. Tinkercad allows tinkers, students, and teachers to quickly learn, build and create in a simplified AutoCad environment. Tinkercad is like the younger sibling of AutoCad by AutoDesk. This web-based application is part of the AutoDesk software family which includes Fusion360, AutoCad, TinkerCad, and more. The point here is simple: if you’re looking for fun, easy-to-use CAD program, give Tinkercad a try. It’s free to sign up and create 3D designs, circuits and code blocks. It’s a very cool, fun, and free way to learn something new for #makers.

Next, let’s discuss the cost. It may be helpful to share the components that were included in this upgrade session – TPU Update. The parts are as follows, or you can skip ahead to the upgrade process in the second post of this series. Below, we will cover the parts list, Creality upgrades, Duramic 3D Filament and Wyze Cameras, for live video action.

Upgrade Shopping List – Electronics, Parts and Accessories

Sprite Extruder

Motherboard v4.2.7 (Required)

Bed Upgrade PEI

Digital Spool Rack

Wifi Box 2.0

Creality TPU Filament

Duramic 3d TPU Filament

Wyze Cam Pan

Wyze Cam v3

Refurbed Max Neo

October 8, 2023September 27, 2024

Part 5 Part 5 – Rebuild And Upgrade

Sonic Pad Adjustments, Assembly

Labwork – Upgrade Part 5

Finally, a moment to enjoy and success is here. Everyone has been eagerly anticipating a full print test of the Ender 3 Max Neo, Sonic Pad, and Creality TPU. The full print was successful without the need for a dreaded motherboard upgrade.

No motherboard upgrade is needed at this time! We just need more time to print and tweak, print and tweak. Success! A fresh print, an end-to-end cube test print… just look at the ironing, ‘it’s alive, it’s alive’. It may seem like a small win, but it is a win nonetheless. The config/console appears to be correct, which is no surprise, I’m looking into a few more tweaks in the end.

Upgrade Continues

Let’s highlight a few things. An update was overdue, especially this one celebrating the print test win. Check. After a very early start this morning (the pictures are included below) we’ve got the Ender 3 Max Neo producing TPU test prints with minimal blips, blurbs, zits, stringing etc. All good things.

The key takeaway, is that delta refers to extrusion setting, which controls the direct drive pressure on the filament. s… These settings can be found in the advanced settings under extrusion settings. A reminder for those using the Creality Sonic Pad interface: if you are using the onboard interface, you will need to look for something called “steps” or a way to control the stepper. In layman’s terms, this refers to the ‘pressure in steps’ needed to push filament through the extruder.

In Part 5, we highlights the success of the extrusion win, along with making other minor tweaks such as adjusting the heat at the tip, improving bed adhesion, and adjusting speed to match the Sprite Extrusion settings. We found that print temps between 220-240 C, depending on the filament type – Duramic or Creality TPU. Additionally, we increased the flow rate by an additional 25%, bringing it to 125%, and reduced the speed by 25% approximately 75%. Therefore, the settings are as follows: 220C – 240C Nozzle – 75C Bed – 75% Speed – 125% Flow Rate – Sprite Extrusion Settings Enabled.

Currently, some additional adjustments are being made to the movement settings in Part 5. The Z height appears to require some minor adjustments in specific areas, although the reason for this is unclear. It could be related to the differences between the initial layers and the subsequent layers. 3D printers enable users to control various settings throughout three stages of the printing process: the beginning, middle and end.

3D Printer Upgrade Inspiration

Evening Print

Halot Reflection

Sonic Pad

Adjustments

Spider Hot End

First Globule

Test Cube

Failed Test Cube

One other thing to mention, which I failed to include in my previous post, Part 4 is that bed adhesion continues to be an issue. It could be the dark horse among the issues at play. A quick fix for bed adhesion is using alcohol and paper towels to keep the adhesion plate clear and clean! Make sure to throughly clean the plate by scrubbing away any oil residue, filament, blips, dust, stringing, dog hair (thanks, Zeus), and any other debris that might accumulate on the build plate in a typical office environment.

I don’t recall if keeping the plate clean actually made a difference when it comes to cleaning the bed, but we have tried a few different methods. We experimented with a clean bed, a taped bed (using Blue Painters Taps), and a sprayed/glue stick adhesive bed. All in an effort to find an alternative solution for prints shifting on the bed surface. We will also be posting some build plate test and will be trying spray adhesives next. Could that be the answer?

More Adjustments

A few adjustments with the Hex (Allen) keys, resetting the rail wheels, and we’ve successfully completed Part 5. Looking back, I’m not sure if the build plate really needed to be cleaned between PLA prints. If you look closely a the picture, you’ll see that the Creality Sonic Pad is now operational as planned. Personally, I don’t think I would have kept the generic screen that originally came with the machine. The Wifi, Cloud Printing/Slicing, direct printing, and customizable settings are all key reasons to stick with the Sonic Pad.

One item to note, is that we have not been able to get the Wifi Box 2.0 to work in the upgraded sandbox. Furthermore, for the time being, we will set aside the Wifi Box 2.0 until we can determine the optimal print settings and ensure consistent adhesion. Despite this, we are staying positive and moving forward with larger format prints, including some TinkerCad projects for a true test. Additionally, it is worth mentioning that we have relocated the printer from the workbench. The tabletop did not provide the necessary stability due to the incessant shaking, vibration, and back-and-forth motions of the printer assembly.

Overall, today is a win after having the printer on the bench for the past few weeks. Check out the previous series articles – Part 1 Teardown, Part 2, Part 3 and Part 4. We are on an upswing, with new parts, new break-fix settings, slicing settings and a new location for the 3D printer to operate. For those interested in what’s coming next, I have a backlog of TPU Max Neo parts, including a new digital spool, some technology ‘smartphone covers’, and a unique locking mechanism for a cooler. More details on that later.

October 6, 2023September 27, 2024

Rebuild Part 4

Rebuild Part 4LetPart 4 Continues

Failed Prints, eSteps/Stepper, Filaments and More

Lab Work – Rebuild Part 4

Fine tuning, break-fix, and reprints. Yes, break-fix steps continue, including fine tuning/recalibration, config adjustments, steppers, test prints and more. Largely, considered a failure so far…

Here in Rebuild Part 4, we cover the failures, not to worry! We will get this fixed with upgrades and all. A couple of cycles now, including – what I will call the ‘teardown-and-rebuild’ cycle – removal of most external upgrades such as the Creality Sonic Pad, Wifi Box 2.0, direct drive extruder, tubes and hot end…

The key is to isolate issues with the teardown and rebuild cycle, building up with neutral or known issues. Please note, the Sonic Pad interface, under the ‘advanced settings’, extrusion settings… the default extrusion type must be changed/modified to include the ‘sprite extruder’, this accounts for the upgrades and the most significant step forward.

Moving on from the Sonic Pad

Please note, there are four default settings – default, sprite, MK8 and manual or custom. Although we quickly tested each extrusion type, here, we focused in on the sprite extruder settings. It is also important to mention that we have not had a successful TPU print. The TPU prints have been bad to say the least, as you will see in the test photos, ranging from bad to worse in some cases.

In addition to misprints, under-printing has been a major issue. This is due to extrusion steps as mentioned above. Please check the Sonic Pad Settings – Advanced Settings – Custom Extrusion Settings – Spite Extrusion vs Onboard Interface ramping up eSteps ~ to around 500mm. Before we proceed, we have have experienced globules (large drops of melted TPU, similar in shape and size to the end of a q-tip) misprints, gummed up nozzles and so on.

Wifi Box and Motherboard

Beyond this point, I have considered a board swap, which will also be something to consider until the print issues can be ironed out. Yes, that would mean an effort in futility, involving a full swap which would be considered moot. For those who might not understand, this would leave only the base hardware/structure unchanged, changing out all components; which is not the goal. If a required motherboard change is confirmed – specifically Creality motherboard v 4.2.7 specifically, a new printer specifically used for TPU might be the answer. Not ideal, but necessary.

Below, you will find new images that have been posted, thought it would help to highlight the removal of the fans, changing out the heating element and sensor and Sonic Pad configs. Furthermore, I feel we are close to a successful print. Before I forget, the PLA prints run with little error, printing test cubes with minor blips or over printing… Beware, slicer/printer controllers do vary, Utlimaker Cura, Creality Slicers etc have varying results, some with no result at all as the print is shown outside the consoles ‘known print’ area. More on that later, we can share a few posts on slicer successes (failures in our case).

Rebuild Activities

Next, let’s cover some of the activities taking place during the rebuild:

Hot End
Assembly
Backplate
Sprite Extruder
Filament Tube
Filaments
Bed level, Adhesion Spray Glue and Blue Tape
Software – firmware and slicers (Creality Cloud, Creality Slicer, Ultimaker Cura)
Wifi Box, MicroSD Cards, Sonic Pad, Onboard Interface
OS – MacOS/Linux
Lot’s of cleaning, grab yourself a brass brush
E-stepper
Nozzles
Temperatures – hot end, bed
Homing Issues
Extrusion Settings
Homing Issues

Rebuild Part 4 continues with the addition of more nozzles, needles, upgraded plate screws, leveling, Capricorn tube, and the Spider 2.0/3.0 Pro hot end… motherboard? We will soon be facing a full swap! Ugh. While it may seem like a lot of work, it is all part of 3D printing. Don’t let that discourage you. The challenge, whether it’s a build problem or a technical issue, is what I enjoy the most. I thrive on finding solutions and working through those challenges, enven if it means testing and failing multiple times. I will share a video at some point, but for now, pictures and commentary will have to suffice.

New Sprite Extruder, Test Prints, and Sonic Pad Failure

First TPU

Sonic Pad Failure

Sprite Extruder Assembled

Overview

Unplug Fans

Hot End, Sprite Extruder

Moving forward, I would like to address some items on the pending list. I believe there may be an issue with the heating element, thermistor, and nozzle. This could be causing problems such as incorrect temps and filament build-up on these components, leading to issues with filament adhesion to build surface. I have read that 424.9 degrees C temp, but we still need to determine the appropriate temp for our specific build. The hot-end and thermistor may be causing these issues, so we ned to investigate and eliminate them as potential factors. Additionally, we should keep some needles on hand to clear the filament path in the direct-drive assembly, as the accumulation of burnt filament can exacerbate the situation. This will be a priority for us to address this week.

New Sprite Extruder Assembly

Hot End Wiring

Install Hot End

Heat Sensor

Assembly

Unboxing

Reassemble

New Hot End

We are skipping the motherboard for now in Rebuild Part 4 because they are not needed at this time. As mentioned before, the motherboard will be part of the full swap. Instead, we are focusing on the new sprite extruder and direct drive motor upgrades that were purchased at the beginning of this build. It’s worth nothing that there are extruders that do not require upgrades, specifically for the 4.2.7 motherboard. Fortunately, this upgrade will include the necessary 4.2.7 motherboard, which is not required for this build.

Following the items mentioned above, the next steps involve installing new screws, metal tension knobs, cushions, tubing and hot end. Ideally, the goal is to achieve a level and consistent bed/build plate temp, a clean adhesion plate, consistent hot end temp to reduce ‘leaking’ and hot end ‘heat creep”, to use quality filament. By addressing these hardware issues, we hope to minimize or eliminate any problems. Assuming the hardware and upgrade components work, the final challenge will be the software adjustments.

Initial TPU Test Prints

TPU appears to be more challenging when testing and encountering failures, especially when failing more frequently than anticipated. However, I managed to successfully print a clean model by swapping filaments and using the old Bowden drive and PLA settings. This step back was necessary to ensure that the base product still prints as intended.

Honestly, the speed-to-market issue comes into play here (assuming you are looking to print commercially or in some professional fashion), as we are lacking the ability to print PLA at a low cost per print and TPU. Join us as we work to find a solution. The problem will be solved shortly, with more to come.

Part of this process is maintaining a positive outlook, even when balls of filament build up on the hot end and nozzle for the 40th test. I know we are close, but as we eliminate or mitigate more pieces and parts, the solution will emerge. I might just need a few more mins to find the right combination of parts and software.

TPU Comments

Frankly speaking, this post, Rebuild Part 4 – TPU has been quite a ride. TPU isn’t too difficult to work with on newer machines, but we need to find a solution for the Ender platform that is budget-friendly for some or maybe not when compared to other very expensive printers that offer out-of-the-box solutions for various fulfillment needs. I will say this, for those seeking an easy, out of the box 3D printer (crickets, crickets), time and budget will be major factors; it could if not the defining factor; make or break the decision.

Finally, we will wrap up the series in part 5, let’s check out Part 5 – Rebuild – Rebuild, Sonic Pad Adjustments and assembly. Check out the new post content, see more, read previous articles in the series, Rebuild – Start, Rebuild – Progress, and Rebuild 3.

September 29, 2023September 27, 2024

Creality TPU

TPU Filament, Challenges and Wins

OEM TPU

Lab Work – Various Filaments

Filament types, such as Creality TPU and various brands, can be a nightmare of a problem to have. Which filament should you purchase? What works best on the 3D printer I own? What should I do when I’m just starting out?

Cut to the point: purchase anduse what you can in context. However, when push comes to shove, the Ender Series, Prusa, and Makerbot all great choices for novices or beginners. Starting with an eBay ‘parts’ printer, might help cut down costs or consider a refurbished one.

Regardless of the product make or structure, the fine-tuning the nozzles, stability of the machine, drive system, adhesion, and filament are important. Filament might be the easiest to swap out, follower by the nozzle (noting various nozzle sizes, with most default sizes being .4mm). For hobbyists, the drive mechanism, bed/build plates, etc. may also need attention. Filament might just be an easy swap with a catch.

Like most things, filament comes with it’s own issues – additional research is required, fine tuning and testing depending on the choice of 3D printer. Let’s talk shop, about filaments, retraction (more on this in a future post). Listen, if purchasing power is a problem, meaning if you have limited funds, start by buying what you can afford, especially for those starting out in the 3D printing hobby. Do what you can to make ‘it work’. Making it work means being able to test, test, and retest. It’s a process of elimination, gradually solving problems over time. Better filaments lead to better results.

Let’s have a look

There have been many times when testing, in fact, I might venture to say, problems are related to the cost of filament and the length of time it takes the user to move from the cheaper options to the final working filament. At least in my experience of finding the right filament through testing, more than not, filament testing became a costly lesson in what not to do. So, yes, a healthy dose of testing is needed, including failure.

That said, I would be remiss not to highlight the value of this article, which is to help you save money on filaments, pieces, parts, and printing costs. The key takeaway is to buy and match OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturing) filaments. For example, since I have Creality printers (3 Creality printers in total), thus, I use Creality filaments like Creality TPU (Thermoplastic Polyurethane) Filament.

Lately, we’ve been looking branch out a bit, as we’ve recently added the Prusa’s i3 MK3S+ 3D Printer kit to the mix. Again, there are many options, printers, upgrades, filaments… choose wisely.

Learn More via MatterHackers

Let’s focus on what works, finding something that works for your current printer or future printer. As a hobbyist, I have stuck to the ‘happy path’ being less adventurous and mainly using PLA’s (Polylactic Acid) and TPU’s. MatterHackers does an excellent job of providing information on what’s available on the market, including types of filament, sizes, brands, and colors.

Dive in! Or maybe, expansion is on your mind, and you want to setup your own print farm – @ShopNation might be a great research to check out. Have options, which might be the biggest take away beyond testing or OEM/OEM filaments. Hey, as a hobbyist, saving some cash is good thing, there are thousands of upgrades on the market, same for the number of printers, filaments, parts, boards etc.

Through various testing methods, settings, set ups, printers and more, I have discovered that what matters most is what works. That is defined as success rate or success metric. Consistency, fit/finish, quality over flash and speed over quantity are key factor. For example Duramic 3D TPU is just not working in the Ender 3 Neo Max rebuild. After tearing it down, rebuilding with all updates, and getting the same result, it is clear that it is time to make a switch.

OEM Filaments and More

The switch I’m referring to here, moving from generics to OEM, worked on the PLA side of the equation. It may be a correlation perhaps, and not causation. I believe that’s the value here. A handy lesson might be to continue testing where it makes sense. Remember, “correlation does not imply or mean causation,” via Mr. Glickman. Learn more about his work via his personal website or faculty website. Or, click here – Mark Glickman – Senior Lecturer in Statistics, Director of Masters Study.

If you want to learn more about filaments, do your research. Please do look into – MatterHackers, All3dp – Filament Finds and/or @ShopNation…

I’ll leave you with this, try what you can afford, what you can afford to discard. Test and work to fine-tune your printer. Words of encouragement ‘leave no product stone unturned’. The goal is to produce high quality, consistent, and clean prints.

Find something that works 80% of the time, the old 80/20 rule. PLA is difficult bear to tweak and maintain, as is TPU and the ~approximately 14 other materials including metals, carbon fiber, wood, and nylon. The applications are endless, ranging from starter to full forge, high-strength, commercial production. The focus should be on settings, adhesion, extrusion temp, nozzle temp, surface tension, and drives – pushers… And so on, testing is our motto/mantra, testing has become a constant. Key is to find something that works well overall, so test them all. Checkin from time to time, as new posts are created daily. We will cover the Prusa tests, Creality TPU, Polycarbonate and PVA (Polyvinyl Alcohol).

Have fun, cheers

Drone Accessories

Creality TPU

TPU Weight

Duramic 3D

September 21, 2023September 27, 2024

Rebuild In Progress, Part 2

Pre-Assembly, Rebuild In Progress

Assembly & Direct Drive Rebuild, 2

Lab Work – Rebuild In Progress, Part 2

A few steps forward now, we pick up with the bold on extruder assembly and assembly backplate here in part 2. So, we continue the rebuild in progress, part 2

Focus, Removal Of Bowden Drive

Fully Assembled

Remove Housing

Extruder

Remove Fans

Remove Extruder

Disassembly

Hot End

Clip Tubing

DD To Extruder

DD Tubing

Motor Clips

Motor Control

We continue with the Rebuild In Progress, Part 2, following on from the previous article in the series, Rebuild part 1. We are discarding the original backplate and incorporating new assembly hardware (correction, new back plate needed see that update here). Unfortunately, the new OEM plate was not compatible with my setup, so I will salvage the new wheels, screws, tightening washers, bolts, and spacers where possible. I quickly performed a dry-fit of all the components, including the screws, spacers, wheels brackets, probe (a black, narrow plastic piece with a probe), side fans (with yellow and blue wires), and heating element (comprised of a heater, heat sink and extruder).

For the final step, make sure to tighten the wheel screws, fan, drive belts, and extruder before installing the heating element. The order in which you do this is important, just like when removing the Bowden drive, brackets and extruder tube. We will reuse some of the old tube to guide TPU filament into the new direct drive extruder. Next, install the extruder fan (red and black wires). Now, you can unscrew the two top wheels and install the new direct drive platform, secure it, and snap on the carriage case (note: the hot side should be on top).

Next, attach the direct drive by clipping it onto the tube provided tube, then snip the tube after a fitting or two. Ensure, the fit is correct. Screw in the direct drive platform from the backside of the plate, which should be installed on the last step. After securing it, connect the direct drive motor to the main line by passing the frame platform where the old extruder motor was located (refer to the last couple of images) and place the harvested tube for the filament.

Easy, right? Part 3 will be coming shortly. We will cover that tomorrow. We need to replace the heating plate, power on the machine and change the step movement.

September 20, 2023September 27, 2024

Board and Slicer Downloads

Downloads, Boards, Slicers & More

Creality – Ender 3 Max Neo, Halot Sky & Prusa

Tech | Tools – Software Support

Board and Slicer Downloads – For future use, especially those of you who are using a Creality Ender 3 Max Neo 3D Printer. If you who have Creality products, and are printing with the Ender series, you may require the following software, which has already been used in different stages of the rebuilding process: Ender Build articles, Series 2, Ender TPU Upgrade.

Here is the list Board and Slicer Downloads:
Creality Halot Sky – Firmware or Slicing (bottom) – https://www.creality.com/pages/download-halot-sky?spm=..page_1934481.products_display_1.1&spm_prev=..index.header_1.1
Ender 3 – Neo Max – Firmware – https://www.creality.com/pages/download-ender-3-max-neo?spm=..product_3b7a3c8a-7861-4186-9818-614e8eb14170.nav_link_store_1.1&spm_prev=..page_1967279.products_display_1.1 or Slicing (bottom) – https://www.creality.com/pages/download-ender-3-max-neo?spm=..product_3b7a3c8a-7861-4186-9818-614e8eb14170.nav_link_store_1.1&spm_prev=..page_1967279.products_display_1.1.

Also, included:
Prusa I3 MK3S+ Kit – Firmware, Drivers and more

September 20, 2023September 26, 2024

Filament Spool Update

Filament Rack, Digital Scale, and Spool

Creality Digital Spool Rack

Gear – Filament Rack

Needed an additional part/piece, this Creality Spool Rack.

Today, we have a Filament Spool Update and the final accessory to add to the TPU upgrade build. Dare I call it the final piece of the puzzle for the build.

What are we looking at here? It’s a top-mounted (overhead) rack, specifically the Creality Digital Spool Rack. The rack, or filament management rack sits atop the main brace/cross-bracket framing structure as shown below (see new spool image). The spool rack will allow for multiple filament types:* PLA, ABS, Nylon, Wood, and TPU *assuming the filament comes on a spool, regardless of the size. It’s important to note that Creality includes a portion of filament or test filament with a new or refurbished printer. This information is helpful for new 3D printer users.

The advantage? TPU specifically can unwind and pass through a top cross-brace funneling mechanism directly into the new direct drive extruder. This serves as the new static filament storage area/piece. For those of you with a Bowden drive, you may not understand, but after the upgrade, we needed a way to feed filament to the direct drive extruder. This serves as the solution.

3D Printer Accessories

New Spool

Digi Spool

Spool Rack

Creality makes this handy filament rack, replacing the OEM side mounted rack. It’s perfect for filament management – size, weight over time etc. Same as the OEM rack with a few upgrades like a bright, digital scale. The rack has a large, bright digital scale Interface, a great visual for filament volume, space and duration.

The key here, as part of the Filament Spool Update, the digital read out (interface) built into the spool mount brings ‘site by volume’. And as you can imagine, this can help predict usage, and consumption rates. More importantly, cost per item or printable. It’s small enough to screw to the topside of the support frame. The interface is bright enough to work in the dark, cast enough light onto the printer bed. Note, all filament types in spool formant should work on the rack, TPU, ABS, Nylon, Wood and/or PLA. All material come into scope once the direct drive is up and functioning as expected.

September 12, 2023September 27, 2024

Max Neo Back Plate

Wrong Parts, Wrong Parts Received

Back Plate and Rail Wheels

Lab Work – Working Through The Challenges Associated With 3d Printers, Printing, Upgrades and More

Relieved my Max Neo Back Plate, the long awaited parts are on the truck this morning

Quick update, all the parts needed to update the Ender 3 Neo Max to run TPU filament through the new, upgraded parts are in. They are within arm’s reach and ready to be installed to complete the initial TPU build.

Unfortunately, I want to go on record and share a warning. I will post the tear down at some-point. So, the essence of the warning is to be careful what you order. Makes sense, right? Cross reference and cross-check OEM parts, refer t your 3D build, and ensure fit and compatibility.

Build progress has stopped because we have the wrong assembly cart, ideally we should have the Max Neo Back Plate, or back plate. The plate configuration (proper mounting holes, size, shape) is off. If you’re new to the site, check out the Max Neo challenges in the Output archives… For those who just want to see the TPU rebuild go here, but understand his – we had a few prints that went sideways. By sideways, I mean the extruder was found buried in filament, grinding away at the build plate.

What’s Next

Ultimately causing a meltdown, and plate parts found elsewhere etc. Prior to the blow out, we have a few successful TPU test builds are in hand, but are error pron. More like the standard build (Ender 3 Neo Max Bowden Extruder setup, standard build from the factory) minus the upgrade, if you can believe that. Please note that sometimes you have to ‘break’ things to truly figure out the right path or change paths, so to speak.

Anyhow, not to belabor the point here, but, we have all the necessary parts to start rebuilding this machine with the correct parts and extruder. This will allow us to build more ‘things’ with an array of filaments.