Personal and professional growth, benefits of identifying positive and negative transformation or next steps forward. Take a swing, small steps.

Dolphin On

Maytronics Nautilus CC Plus Repair Update

Dolphin On

Dolphin Motor Unit Exchange

Lab Work – Maytronics Repair, Dolphin On, Post Hurricane

Parts are in, Dolphin Has Been Repaired, Cleaning Away

Let’s take a closer look at the process. Upon further inspection, I found corrosion around the motors. The seal around the power cord also appears to be in poor condition. So, I proceed with a teardown, replacing the power unit, and tread ball bearings to restore the robot back to full capacity with genuine OEM parts. A self-test  was performed as need, I conducted a number of in-water and out-of-water tests which worked perfectly. As it should, under normal power. Next, I replaced all parts and picked up where we left off on the last article Nautilus Down (check that out if you missed it).

Pre-Check, Install and Test

Check all cogs, ball bearings, drive pin, and wheel/hub parts. Make sure ball bearings are moving freely and free of rust or degradation. Replaced any parts showing degradation or major rust. Filled electronic parts and pressure seals with pool lube and reconnected parts, careful to screw-down fasteners and plastic nuts with appropriate tension. Dolphin On. Additionally, both out-of-water and in-the-water tests performed as expected. Time for a swim! Cinched down any screws, or screens, package up the robot and ran the clean cycle.

Robot Build
New Unit

New Unit

Connector

Unit Connector

Cross Check

Dry Fit

Tread Check

Tread Check

Proper Fit

Proper Fit

Motor Check

Motor Check

Dolphin on Dry Test

Dry Test

Post Test

Post Test

Brush Down and Toggle The Dolphin On

If you can’t tell, the pool has sand, debris and dragonflies. Before we toggle the Dolphin On, let’s do a quick brush down of the pool to encourage removal.  You can kind of see here the pool was a bit dirty,  as the hurricane kicked up enough debris for the Dolphin to clean. There was no pool cage carnage, or aluminum part failure, which is great. Minor screen damage only.

Maytronics Documents and More

Finally, following the test cycles, Dolphin on, put in the water and cleaned the pool well. In most cases, the vacuum actively cleans on stage 1, please the Maytronics manuals. Find Stage 1 testing and more robot testing features under the Nautilus CC Plus section. I hope this information helps, how to get your pool robot fixed and Dolphin On. If anyone out there needs assistance, please contact me I am happy to help. Thanks! As usual leave a comment below to let us know what you’re thinking!

Dolphin Down

Maytronics Nautilus CC Plus Repair

Dolphin Down, Waiting On Parts

Nautlius Motor Troubles

Lab Work – Maytronics Repair, Dolphin Down. Let’s fix the Nautilus CC Plus

Looks like a new motor unit is required. Full teardown ahead.

Exciting news! A new series, Dolphin Down, is coming soon. This series is related to the repair of the Maytronics Dolphin Nautilus CC Plus. Currently, we are awaiting the arrival of a new motor unit. In the meantime, we are in the process of dismantling the Nautilus CC Plus robot in search of a malfunctioning drive motor.

The fan motor is functioning properly, passing both tests passed – underwater and out-of-water tests. The multimeter has confirmed that the drive motor is not working. The circuit board appears to be in good, working condition confirmed by the blinking green LEDs. The LEDs indicating that it is functioning as expected. This a positive sign for our robot and the repair diagnosis. 

Robot Teardown
Housing

Housing

Screen Key

Screen Key

Prop Screen

Prop Screen

Cord

Cord

Internals

Internals

Motor Unit

Motor Unit

Remove Prop

Remove Prop

Prop Residue

Prop Residue

Sealed Cord

Sealed Cord

To begin the teardown process, find a safe spot and grab a multi-tool with pliers, flathead and cross bits (Phillips bits). Start by removing the power cord from the unit and unplugging the unit from the wall if necessary. First, on the Dolphin, unscrew the four screws under the filter doors to remove the top. Use the transparent or white flathead key or knob to pop open the propeller gate, which is easily accessible once the filter doors are open.

Next, slide the cord out from under the blue, body cover after removing the four main screws. Adjust the cord, remove the floats and be careful when removing the side panels. These panels should just pop off top down.  Just be aware of the tabs on the bottom of the panels, this is what hold the body shells in place. Use the pliers to unscrew the blue cord connected to the power unit, as well as the four screws holding the two yellow cord strips to the unit. Unscrew the four unit screws holding the motor unit in place and it will be free.

Robot Teardown
Drive Bearings

Drive Bearings

Motor Unit

Motor Unit

Motor Case

Motor Case

Remove Unit

Remove Unit

Board Check

Board Check

Drive Motor

Drive Motor

Finally, check all cogs, drive belts, and wheel/hub parts. Ensure that the ball bearings are moving freely, unobstructed and are free of rust or degradation.  Replace any parts that showing degradation, wear or significant rust. Fill with lubricant and reconnect parts, being careful to screw with appropriate tension. Test the robot out of water first, followed by half-submerged and fully submerged underwater tests. *Updated – Check out the repair – Dolphin On or the first post we commented on regarding the Maytronics Nautilus Dolphin for more information on troubleshooting, maintenance and repairs. More information will be provided in the next *5 business days, as we will be receiving the new motor unit packaging up the robot and running the cleaning cycle. Thank you.

As always, feel free to leave a comment below, let us know your thoughts!

Drone Accessories

Grab Your Drones, Goggles and Transmitters – We Are Racing

New FrSky Taranis Q X7S, Quadcopter Blades, Batteries and Toggle Caps

Taranis Carbon Fiber Transmitter

Gear – Drone Accessories

Adding our at-home, indoor flight “program” (a little tongue-in-cheek), we have new accessories, transmitters and blades – let’s race!

With our Amazon order received,  we have a mixed lot of parts and accessories. It’s time to break out the racing drones again, as we needed a few bits and parts to get them flying just right. A new transmitter, a second FrSky Taranis QX7S (Carbon Fiber) Remote for a second racing drone along with blades and batteries. The goal was to fix what needed fixing and get ready for racing.

And racing we shall! With side-by-side flight, using dual transmitters, we can race real-time, with similar nano drones for indoor racing games. I’ve added toggle caps/covers for those new to quad racing – these caps provide pilots and hobbyists with visual cues and help reinforce muscle memory for which  toggles are active. This aids in remote usage and recognition during take off, flight, landing and crashes.

Lastly, we are in the process of turning over our battery collection, some of which are over 4 years old. A few have problems, but around 4 to 5 remain in good or optimal shape for flight. So,  with a few extra batteries (8 in total, 2 packs of 4 batteries) we can enjoy 15 – 20 minutes of real racing time, assuming normal flight ranges and pilot skill.

Drone Accessories
FrSky Transmitter

FrSky Case

New Taranis Transmitter

New Taranis Transmitter

Carbon Fiber Transmitter

Carbon Fiber Transmitter

Transmitter with Toggles

Transmitter with Toggles

Ready 4 Flight

Ready 4 Flight

Toggle Covers

Toggle Covers

Avan Blades

Avan Blades

EMAX LiPos

EMAX LiPos

Racing Drone

Racing Drone New Blades

Racing Drone

Racing Drone

Dual Racing Drones

Dual Racing Drones

For those of you interested in learning more about the drone hobby, or wanting to see more. I have one more resource for you: the Drone Racing League. The league flies all around the world, but more specifically the race in Germany. The league race took place at DHL Tower – Race 6 (EU), where drones are reaching speeds over 100mph and race skyward over skyscrapers, performing flips beyound your wildest imagination. The race features super high-end drones and professional pilots running quadcopter and competing for money! It’s crazy tech in action.

Other Drone Resources

If you’re new to quadcopter(s) and are wondering what to buy – drones, drone accessories etc., FPV (First Person View) flight, check out @Bardwells YouTube channel for all kinds of tips and fixes (my goto for FC and BetaFlight help). Most videos are extremely detailed, with the goal of getting you hooked! Shout out to Joshua, he’s a legend as his videos played a pivotal role in getting the EMAX drones bound to the original Taranis transmitter via BetaFlight. For parts, check out our shopping list, where I’ll post links to the quadcopter(s) (drones), parts, accessories and more.

We also have a number of articles on the subject matter; including the Emax TH2, drone repair, full-sized drone operation, video in flight and more. Feel free to preview those any time. Interested in a full sized video drone? Check out the DJI Phantom Pro series as well. 

Although it’s been months since we posted anything related to the Taranis Q RC transmitters, more can be found here. Also, if you’re interested in more Emax lab work this two part Emax Series – Part 1 and Part 2 is a great place to start. In order would be best to explore this content, or if you want to jump to the conclusion click on Part 2 for the fix.

Before we sign off, we have to plug our own shopping list, the drone accessories will be posted on the site shortly.

TPU Post Processing

Testing, Slicer Settings, Heat and Bed Adhesion

TPU Action – Post Processing

Sprite Printing, TPU Post Processing Action

Max Neo Upgrades: Post Process Part of the TPU Action Series

Now, let’s discuss the ‘post process’ or TPU Post Processing after completing the physical upgrade of the Max Neo 3D Printer.

Moving on to the exciting part, we will delve into the settings, the testing process post-upgrade, and the outcomes of our efforts. As a sneak peek, we will explore the new ‘refurbed Max Neo’ (second machine), including its unboxing, post-setup testing, and transition to PETG filament for creating ‘usable’ or functional parts. All of this and more will be covered in our next article. So, we have addressed the reason behind the upgrade, which is primarily to enhance quality. Improving the quality issues has been and continues to be the main motivation for this upgrade. Additionally, the parts we have acquired for the upgrades aim to increase our success rate when using TPU filaments. Now, let’s get into the testing process.

Downloads: Firmware, Slicers, Web Apps and more:

Creality Links Suggestions (links removed if blocked, do a search for the following in that cause)
Creality Wiki
Ender 3 Max Neo: Product Firmware and Slicer
Sprite Pro Extruder: Sprite Extruder Pro
Creality Motherboard: Motherboard Firmware v4.2.7
Ecosystem – Sonic Pad: Creality Sonic Pad

Make Your Own Printables –
Creality Cloud (newer printers): Cloud 3d Printer Management
Tinkercad

Settings, Printables: Pre-made Royalty/Royalty-Free –
All3dp Slicer Settings: All 3DP Settings
All3dp Support: All 3DP Support Settings
printables.com/model
Thingiverse
Cults3d

Let’s Test, Power On The Machine and Go

Earlier we discussed the hardware upgrades and software required for the motherboard. Now, the real test begins… (drum roll please). Sharing the 40,000 foot view, we can cover slicer settings, quality improvements and how the machine is running TPU today. Ultimately, we will cover the TPU Post Processing steps at a higher level here, while providing detailed specifics in a stand alone feature article. Perhaps, we will cover each setting and how it affects print quality overall. So, we have completed the teardown, upgrade, and rebuild activities. Ready the machine, perform pre-launch checks, ensure all connections are properly seated, motor connectors and belts are connected and plug it in. Toggle the power switch ‘on’ and start making stuff. TPU Post Processing is a go!

Starting with PLA first, after upgrades, the out-of-the-box settings are fairly accurate. A generous e-step setting (e-step refers to the distance the direct drive will push the material into the extruder heating element is recommended. Lesson one learned: a tight fit, or concise grouping of slicer, motherboard/motherboard software and direct drive extruder can improve the quality of TPU prints.

Creality Ecosystem and TPU Processing

Keep in mind, the ‘ecosystem’ described above, works to apply the correct pressure, volume of materials, heat and adhesion for TPU filament as it passes through the direct drive extruder. Continuing on, each subsequent print and setting tweak can improve the target goals forming a quality print. Beare in mind, we are looking for improvement round-over-round of testing, inching us closer to a seamless print. PLA is fairly easy to work with and can run OOB (out-of-box) with OOB settings. Despite mismatched hardware flaws from previous builds, this new hardware runs the latest firmware logics, producing orderly prints. Additionally, with each print, make sure the printer has been leveled, aligned and bed plate cleaned. The goal is high quality TPU prints, creating that ‘happy path’.

Logically speaking, when moving through baseline testing, it is important to reduce flaws and misprints. In our case, this involves establishing a new baseline measurement of quality. The baseline serves as a guide for what to expect when using an out-of-the-box (OOTB) solution for PLA manufacturing or hobby printing. The goal is to eliminate flaws, blips and globs that can occur during the printing process. This article assumes that the machine purchased is shipped with necessary parts and that these parts are properly installed either installed either by the retailer or supply house.

Take a breather, you deserve it. it’s a nice feeling to complete the build. The easy part, for all intense and purposes is now over.

Build On Upgrade Successes

Generally speaking, machines come with a MicroSD card with some preinstalled printables, in our case Boaty and Bunny. These test prints will help test pre-sliced builds, slicer tests (more calibration tests) such as adhesion, temperature, flowrate, etc. The timeframe for testing effort covers more than 2 weeks (time-lapsed, of course) of work. In between coding and other work, that ‘happy path’ quickly moved us from basic PLA calibration and testing to minimal adhesion issues. PLA blips were corrected with filament flow changes, an increase in temperature at the extruder tip and reduction of heat at the bed. Note, turn fans off. Fans or cooling filament, TPU and PETG require high temps for optimal extrusion and bed adhesion. Bed plate temps vary depending on filament type, but note that cooling the filament is out of scope. It’s more of a hassle and does more harm than good.

If I haven’t explicitly state this in my previous articles, simply removing the fans or programmatically turning them off at the slicer helps maintain higher quality prints day over day. During the Bowden to Direct Drive conversion, the fans were removed for the formal TPU run. They were also nerf’ed for this build, as the quality print quality over consecutive prints is not sufficient for an ideal manufacturing process with 10 or more prints. A better solution to note here, reduce fan power (or turn them off) as TPU and PETG are finicky filaments.

Reduced Filament Heat, Not Good For Business

Simply reducing heat is not enough, the cooling process can actually lead to poor bed adhesion issues, which we will address. However, our main focus is on eliminating any shipping or physical/hardware issues that may arise during the startup process and initial PLA prints. When it comes to PLA testing, we need to answer the following questions: Did we install the parts correctly? Does the filament passthrough the extruder smoothly? Are any anomalies in the prints due to hardware or software issues or are they the new norm? In simple terms, does the machine and all it’s parts function as expected? The answer should be yes! Below, we have outlined the steps to ensure everything is working properly. Additional text and images will be included to provide further clarification for those who need visual aids, so stay tuned!

Post Upgrades, PLA Settings and Prints
At Rest

At Rest

First Print

First Print

Cylinder Test

Cylinder Test

Smartphone Case Test

Case Test

Camera (Webcam)

Camera (Webcam)

Second Print

TPU Print

Second View

TPU Print Second View

Clean Up

Clean Up

Adhesive Problems and Clean up

Adhesion Problems

Filament Weight

Filament Weight

Midnight Run

Midnight Run

Sonic Smart Pad Crash

Smart Pad Crash

Sticking with moderate sized prints for larger sizes, the Max Neo is the largest bed plate available, quality, clean up effort and repeatability are all key factors in successful 3D printing. As they say, all’s well that ends well. Initially, PLA filaments ran smoothly, but bed adhesion issues arose when transitioning to TPU filaments, becoming a sore spot. It seems that all good things must come to an end (but we carry on). Work is ongoing, with bed adhesion remaining a concern. Test are ongoing as we search for the optimal TPU printing environment including machine settings, bed adhesion plates, temperatures, printing speed, e-steps, etc.

What has helped here is assuming users are using quality TPU filaments and a quality bed plate (textured or smooth) glass. Simple school glues, spray adhesives, and/or painter’s tape can quickly correct adhesion issues. Later on, we switched to using the Creality PEI bed plate and school glue for TPU and PETG prints, eliminating the need additional adhesives and their associated costs. Below, you will find a few of our successful prints, as well as some disasters, including late-night smartphone case print cycles and the decision to incorporate the new PEI bed surface.

Bed Adhesion, Sonic Pad Swap, TPU Settings Rollout
Duramic Run

Duramic Run

Skewed Results

Skewed Results

Stop The Press

Stop The Press

TPU Run

TPU Run

Prep Surface

Prep Surface

Peel PEI Surface

Peel PEI Surface

Bed Film Placed

Bed Film Placed

Bed Ready

Bed Ready

Adhesion crisis  averted, we can now delve into the new Creality V4.6 Slicer. Download it now if you can or choose to do so. The slicer comes packed full of new mix settings and reliable ‘custom’ settings that we use during the transition from PLA to TPU. Custom filament tweaks on the slicer get the job done. These settings serve as the gate approval system, easily covering baseline testing and PLA-to-TPU mashups. It’s important to note that the  slicer is crucial, along with the other hardware and software elements included in this build. 

Ultimately, upon reflection, I believe this is where the success of this build truly shines. The success of TPU Post Processing depends on the slicer, its customization and support settings. Moving forward, despite previous builds having only moderate success, the new Slicer is excellent and quite serviceable. I must mention the failures of the Sonic Pad here – we have decided to forgo the Sonic Pad for now and instead opt for the Wifi 2.0 boxes or manual printing using the Max Neo MicroSD and LCD interfaces at the machine. Honestly, it’s the build ecosystem the firmware, slicer, motherboard, and Sprite Pro extruder that has allowed us to achieve a level of quality that we were unable to attain in the previous builds. More on this will be discussed in another article.

Accessories, Bed Adhesion and Latest Settings

Moving on from the slicer settings and Sonic Pad issues, I decided to use the Wifi Box 2.0, with latest firmware to improve creature comfort while printing. This allows me to print from a seated position at my desk eliminating the need to constantly go back and forth between my desk and the printer for tasks like creation, slicing, MicroSD management, and selecting print. Additionally, I added a camera to work as a webcam, enabling me to print untethered or engage in hobby-level production. This upgrade can be likened to a ‘power up’ in Super Mario Bros. providing enhanced functionality. The upgraded webcam allows for seamless printing from the slicer to the printer using the Wifi Box.

We will address the challenges of using a Wyze webcam in a separate article. This article will provide a step-by-step guide for converting your camera. We will also include videos and the best guides to follow when converting your Wyze camera to a webcam. In conclusion, Wyze offers an affordable alternative  to other webcams on the market. By using a simple fix, developer-built code, and easy button combinations, you can easily convert your Wyze camera into a webcam. Now, let’s move on to TPU prints. 

Various TPU Filaments, Smartphone Case Tests, Clean Up
Grey Duramic

Grey Duramic

Grey Case

Grey Case

Parts At Once

Parts At Once

Creality TPU

Creality TPU

TPU Objects - All at once

TPU Objects

TPU Container

TPU Container

Tertiary Case

Tertiary Case

TPU Cleanup

TPU Cleanup

Legacy Case

Legacy Case

Legacy Case 2

Legacy Case

Cleaned Up

Cleaned Up

TPU Comparison

TPU Comparison

Production Variation

Thirdly, let’s discuss adhesion. As as we progress through TPU testing or post processing, PLA and TPU prints have ‘adhesion issues such as peeling or damage that appears to be caused by severe temperature changes. This is a good opportunity to address adhesion settings. Balancing bed temp and extrusion temperature is an ongoing testing process that you will become very familiar with when working with 3D print production. Think of it as a blend of art and science when working with 3D printers, printables and open source or custom designs.

Overall, if you don’t pay attention to adhesion and temperatures, things can quickly become difficult, especially with production variations using TPU filaments and even more so with PETG filaments. It’s important to maintain control, and a small amount of adhesive can make a big difference. With the upgraded motherboard, extruder, PEI build plate, and proper adhesion using school glue, you can have better control. Pay attention to settings, especially when it comes to support (use a generous amount for support at the plate) and bed plate adhesion like using the raft selection.

Temperature Improvements and Optimal Settings

Ideal or optimal slicer settings work to complement a brim/auto brim or raft adhesion type. With the addition of what has been tested to be the best bed adhesion type… temps at 250 degrees, bed at 0 degrees, (fan at 0) and speed at 50%. Three products were tested: heavy strength spray adhesive, painters tape and simple school glue. Testing suggestions, again, not required, but more as a release agent. Now, the opposite can be said for PETG, which we will cover in another article. Those settings are still being worked out. As you can imagine, working through the TPU settings took about ~2 weeks of effort, PETG has a much longer testing effort.

Today, we have gathered and processed with what may be the optimal TPU Slicer settings. A new camera position, guided by fewer misprints in our testing efforts, has been implemented to reduce production flaws like blips, or globs, traveling over the print. We have managed to nail down or complete what feels like the final tweaks for TPU printables. Therefore, before we introduce PETG (which can be challenging on its own), we have minimized difficulties and ensured high quality. Before we transition away from TPU, I would like to highlight both the successes and failures in achieving quality. We are gradually transitioning from hardware/software upgrades to different filament types such as PLA, TPU, and now PETG. We are exploring factors such as heat, bed temperature, support and bed adhesion methods.

Wrap up and Conclusion

PETG filaments introduce a range of new adhesion issues, making clean up a nightmare. Additionally, while the quality of prints has improved in terms of  smoothness and clarity, all prints require some form of ‘final processing’ or deburring. To build on the success of TPU printing, we have invested in additional tools such as Klein Tools Flush Cutters and AFA Deburring Tool Set. These purchases aim to enhance post-print output, with the goal of significantly improving final production or shippable pieces with typical manufacturing process (design, construction, production, shipping).

Finally, at the end here, we touched on the TPU Post Processing setup. Let’s share some more images for those who enjoy visuals, think of it as a snapshot of ‘where we are today’… one click printing, high quality prints, replicable from PLA to PETG, camera, and wifi box 2.0. Let’s cover the initial PLA testing, the TPU filament torture test (array), and final print slicer/WiFi Box settings on the next episode of TPU Action!

Slicer Tweaks, Latest Prints
Web Cam

Web Cam

Test Builds

Test Builds

New TPU Filament

New TPU Filament

Matching Tool Station

Matching Tool Station

Purchase a WiFi 2.0 Box

WiFi 2.0 Box

Dual WiFi Boxes running multiple machines

Matching WiFi Box

TPU Full Setup

Full Setup

Revisit previous posts in this series which cover the new filament spool upgrade, upgradable parts such as  hardware, accessories, filament and current pricing. All of these items can be found on the Shopping List. Alternatively, you can read about the upgrade process and the successes achieved along the way.

TPU Upgrade Process

Rebuild, Direct Drive, Build Plate and Tech Upgrades

TPU Action – Upgrade Process

Completed Build

Max Neo Upgrades: The Upgrade Process, Part of the TPU Action Series

Now, let’s discuss the Creality Max Neo 3D Printer Upgrade – unboxing, teardown, install of upgrade parts. Our goal is to improve TPU scalability and production quality. As a side note, we received a refurbished Max Neo and will cover the PETG settings and troubleshooting process in our next article.

We have already discussed the reasons for upgrading the parts and quality benefits it brings. We have purchased the necessary parts for the updates to increase our success rates. Now, let’s move on to the physical upgrade.

Unbox Upgrades

Let’s get started, shall we? We have  got our boxes and can officially begin the TPU Upgrade process. All parts have been unboxed, including the new extruder with direct drive that features an easy-to-install quick connect with locks on the print head. Additionally, we have the rail cart for bolting the extruder to the rail and powering it with the axis motors. Next, we have the new silent motherboard, which is necessary for installing the Creality Sprite Extruder Pro kit. Secondly, we have the new bed plate ready to go. Once the process is complete, we will test the machine first without the upgrade and then with it to ensure everything is printing smoothly.

Unbox Parts, Printer Teardown and  Disassembly References
Motherboard v4.2.7

Motherboard v4.2.7

WiFi Box 2.0

WiFi Box 2.0

Sprite Extruder Pro Kit

Sprite Extruder Pro Kit

Sprite Assembly Pro Unboxing

Sprite Extruder Pro

Power Down

Power Down

Unplug

Unplug

Prep Screen & Unplug

Prep Screen & Unplug

Disconnect Motors

Disconnect Motors

Starting the TPU upgrade process? Let’s begin by removing all power cords. If you have a Wifi 2.0 Box or Sonic Pad, those should also be powered down and their cords removed. I prefer to start fresh with no cords. Now, we have our tech tools. I  will post a link to the shopping list following this post. If you have the original set of tools provided by Creality at purchase, those will work just fine.

Begin Teardown, Be Careful and Take Your Time

Let’s dismantle the printer by taking apart the extruder and the extruder rail cart. After removing a few bolts, we should have the printing area cleared. It’s worth noting that this particular printer has previously been upgraded making the direct drive easily accessible.  For more information on the original direct drive build you can refer to the Ender Teardown, Rebuild – 5 Part Series. In the series, you will see the filament being removed, power cables unclipped, e-touch and cable connections from the extruder to the board, bolts being removed, cart being taken out, and extruder being detached. The printing area should now be free of extruder parts and the rail cart

Look around the 3D printer frame, specifically the drivers, those should be unclipped as well. I also like to disconnect the screen here. There is a clip on the back: the ribbon connector can be unclipped and set aside. Now, gently lift and turn the machine clockwise, placing the machine on its right side or screen side (which has been removed for this exact reason).

The top screw does not need to be removed here; it is one of 4 or 5 screws that hold the motherboard to the base Start by unscrewing the right-hand side first (motherboard side), being careful to unplug the 0.10 A computer fan clip, and then move on to the left side (power side). Ribbons, cords, and wires of various shades and colors may have shifted around a bit, especially in this case, as the printer was previously upgraded. Therefore, electrical wires or shield tape may be wound tightly. Be gentle with the cover screws, as they will be used again in approximately 15 – 30 minutes.

Unbox and Preparation
Motherboard v4.2.7

Motherboard v4.2.7

WiFi Box 2.0

WiFi Box 2.0

Sprite Extruder Pro Kit

Sprite Extruder Pro Kit

Sprite Extruder Pro Unboxing

Sprite Extruder Pro

Power Down

Power Down

Unplug

Unplug

Prep Screen & Unplug

Prep Screen & Unplug

Disconnect Motors

Disconnect Motors

Take a look around, assume if you have tilted the machine clockwise on it’s side by roughly 90 degrees and removed the screws. On the left, we are examining power management, and on the right, control.

Equally important, a visual inspection will reveal hot glue on all or most of the motherboard connectors, depending on the condition of the machine.

If the machine is new or refurbished, hot glue is common, so don’t be alarmed!

This is to be expected for Creality machines. We will begin removing the glue using a spudger, hemostats and/or gloved hand. In this process, we start from right to left, starting with the screen connector (rainbow ribbon), the top connector marked GV IN G OUT, the mini two-wire connectors (grey and the black axis wires), the fan wires (yellow and blue), and the red, yellow and black harness. Ignore the power wires for now, we will be address those in the third step. Next, we will move to the top of the board to disconnect the X, Y, Z and E black wire harnesses. You’re almost there, you can do this!

Disassemble Extruder and Motherboard
Internal Fan

Internal Fan

Unscrew Power Cover

Unscrew Power Cover

Power Unit

Power Unit

Unscrew Housing

Unscrew Housing

Motherboard

Motherboard

Hot Glue Removal

Hot Glue Removal

Right-to-left

Start Right-to-left

Disconnect Cables

Disconnect Cables

Fans & Power

Fans & Power

Disconnect Power

Disconnect Power

All Connections

All Connections

Remove Board

Remove Board

Let’s move on to the green locks next. Using a flat head screwdriver, start from right to left to unscrew and remove the red and black wires. Voila! We are now 50% complete. The glue removal process usually takes the longest, making it challenging to navigate the board space. Let’s unscrew the board from the frame (unscrew the two bolts on the front), leaving the last screw on the top, removing the top from the frame. Unscrew the motherboard and set it aside for safekeeping or for use in another refurbished printer in the future. Take a moment to check around the frame, organize the screws and bolts (I recommend using a piece of paper and a Sharpie). Draw a box label it,  and tape the hardware screws securely. 

Motherboard and Extruder Installation

Straightaway, let’s start by removing the new motherboard from its package, if you have not already done so, and placing it into the motherboard (control) space. Additionally,  make sure to safely connect the USB and MicroSD connectors on the board first, then align the board with the appropriate screw mounts on the board. Once the screws are in place, the board should sit firmly in place, secured and ready to go!

Reassemble 3D Printer, Upgrade Reference
Attach New Board

Attach New Board

Left-to-right

Left-to-right

+ and -

+ and –

Fans and Motors

Fans and Motors

Upper Cables

Upper Cables

Seat Cables

Seat Cables

Okay, in reverse, the TPU Upgrade process continues with the new Sprite Extruder raw wire ends. Start by securing the green motherboard locks first, moving from left to right. The power from the power unit should be on the side of the board, with alternative red/back wires. Make sure to read the labels to ensure the correct landing spot for those power wires. Next, connect the yellow/blue fan and the red, yellow, and black wires just below the fan connector. Moving right replace the x-, y- , z-, TB, TH, and GV IN G OUT connections. Now, connect the screen ribbon. Double-check all fittings and  secure the green locks on the board to ensure a snug fit.

Finally, when working on the motherboard, let’s replace the screws on the power unit side carefully. Run the wires through the notched metal railing and secure the front bolts for the control cover, bottom screws, and the top screws. This is a critical area where you must exercise caution, as the cables can easily break. Take your time here.

Post Installation Checks, Screws, Belts and More

Continuing on, secure the Pro Extruder Kit. Lift, turn, and place the printer  in its center. All wires, ribbons and connectors are ready for the new drive. Next, install the extruder and fit it to the assembly cart. Thirdly, connect the e-touch ribbon cable, seat the cable so that is snug. Fourthly, seat the red hot wire creating a connection between the hot end and the extruder. It may have a tight fit, so now is the time to place the wire while the extruder is loose on the cart. Secure the extruder to the cart mounting point by placing the screws and tightening them down. Moreover, ensure a secure and tight connection, firmly setting the drive in place!

Next, if you machine has an E-touch, screw it to the provided mounting hardware. Ensure a good fit by checking the orientation and making sure the extruder card fits snug on the rail. Securely attach the axis cables or rubber power drive belts. The belts slides into place on the backside of the assembly cart). This should be loose from the  if dismantling process. Firmly, attach axis cables, or rubber power drive belts. Undoubtedly, the belts slide into place (two slots cut out on the assembly cart) on the backside, if you remember during the teardown process. Next, loosen the X/Y axis drive belts using the red knobs, one on the front and the other on the right side. Now, tighten those knobs by turning them clockwise to apply tension to the belts and cart.

Extruder, Power On and Level
Seat Extruder

Seat Extruder

Power On

Power On

Hone & Level

Hone & Level

Replace drive connectors, which are key for stable linear and vertical movement. Reference tags will indicate connectors for controlling the x and y drive motors. Install the extruder ribbon by tucking it behind the two black plastic static tabs located just above the connector saddle and ribbon locks. 

Now the real test begins… the TPU Upgrade process continues to the next round! The series progresses, read more about TPU Post Processing or go back to the beginning with TPU Action. Finally, we will cover the initial settings, slicer, accessories and final settings in the next installment, so stick around. If you’re new to the series you can revisit upgrade parts on our affiliate shopping area and review pricing, upgraded hardware reviews, accessories and filament essential for this build. Alternatively, you can skip ahead, review article upgrade parts and accessories in the series opening.

TPU Upgrade Action

Full Install, System Inspection and Testing

TPU(Thermoplastic Polyurethane) Action – Sprite Extruder, Motherboard and Prints In Flight

TinkerCad Design - TPU Box with compartments

Max Neo Upgrades: The Parts, the pain and TPU Series

Covering TPU Action, starting with the removal, adding modifications, clean-up effort, settings for successful prints and final production.

Why Upgrade, Pieces and Parts

Let’s start with the why. Why upgrade your Max Neo board, extruder etc.? The easy answer is successful TPU prints. Prints of high quality, with low errors (blips and globs), working usable prints and again, TPU. How long did the upgrades take, i.e. duration, to upgrade the required parts for successful prints? In short, the installation took 30 – 60 minutes, with tweaks taking an additional 2 weeks. The time to achieve successful and consistent prints was 2.5 weeks. This includes time for troubleshooting, adding/removing parts, multiple test prints (which might slightly affect the duration), and finalizing print settings within the Creality Slicer.

Slicer and Pre-Print Preview
TinkerCad Design

Tinkercad Design

Slicer 4.3.8

Creality Slicer 4.3.8

Slicer Pre-Build

Slicer Pre-Build

If you have not checked out TINKERCAD yet, please do. This is where my drawings, ideas and digital designs come to life. It’s a web based application, specifically CAD (Computer Aided Design) software, used in the maker space and ideally in the global manufacturing industry. Tinkercad allows tinkers, students, and teachers to quickly learn, build and create in a simplified AutoCad environment. Tinkercad is like the younger sibling of AutoCad by AutoDesk. This  web-based application is part of the AutoDesk software family which includes Fusion360, AutoCad, TinkerCad, and more. The point here is simple: if you’re looking for fun, easy-to-use CAD program, give Tinkercad a try. It’s free to sign up and create 3D designs, circuits and code blocks. It’s a very cool, fun, and free way to learn something new for #makers.

Next, let’s discuss the cost. It may be helpful to share the components that were included in this upgrade session – TPU Update. The parts are as follows, or you can skip ahead to the upgrade process in the second post of this series. Below, we will cover the parts list, Creality upgrades, Duramic 3D Filament and Wyze Cameras, for live video action.

Upgrade Shopping List – Electronics, Parts and Accessories
Sprite Extruder

Sprite Extruder

Motherboard v4.2.7

Motherboard v4.2.7 (Required)

Bed Upgrade PEI

Bed Upgrade PEI

Digital Spool Rack

Digital Spool Rack

Wifi Box 2.0

Wifi Box 2.0

Creality TPU Filament

Creality TPU Filament

Duramic 3d TPU

Duramic 3d TPU Filament

Wyze Cam Pan

Wyze Cam Pan

Wyze Cam v3

Wyze Cam v3

Refurbed Max Neo

Refurbed Max Neo

Fix 3D Prints and Plastics

Be Creative Without the Hassle

Quick Fix With Glue(Super) and Baking Soda

Active Fix

Strong Adhesives, Baking Soda and Spray Activator/Hardener Light

Fix plastics, wood lures, wood carvings and more. Fix 3d Prints and Plastics better than traditional fillers or bonding agents.

Adhesives, Clean Up/Deburring
Starbond Kit – Starbond Kit – Glue & Activator Starbond – Super Fast Thin Glue JB Weld – J-B Weld Bonder (2) Pack AFA Tooling – AFA Tooling Deburring Tools
Dremel Tool – Dremel High Performance Rotary Tool Kit
In A Tight Spot, Choose Super Adhesive and Baking Soda

Need a quick fix, while out fishing in the field? Or did a new 3D print break during the clean up process? What should you do now? For a quick fix, simply grab some extra strength glue, our choice, Starbond, Starbond activator, baking soda and start the filling process. This method works on wood, plastics, and more. By using baking soda as the ‘filler’ and the super adhesive as the bonding agent, you’ll have a quick fix in no time. 

If you need to clean up your 3D Printables, clean up or deburr plastics and filler using super adhesives and baking soda, deburring tools are a must. When producing items from plastics or resin compounds such as wood, metals and plastics, the production process isn’t perfect, leaving you with work post production. Tasks like, trimming for metal stamping or removing travel or supports in the 3D printing process, require specific tools. We  recommend AFA Deburring Tools for hand scraping and clean up, as well as the Dremel Rotary Tool for tile, clay, woods and metals. These tools are handy to have around the shop for various tasks.

Finally, for those tough jobs, or bonds, try JB Weld (J-B Weld Amazon Store). There are many applications for JB weld. Whether it’s loose or broken tiles, outdoor furniture, or any other project, JB Weld Epoxy and adhesives will create a strong and lasting bond using chemical bonding resins.

For a comprehensive list of all products mentioned above, please refer to our affiliate shopping list for ideas, product information, and more. Here are some products you may want to consider! Please note that this is just one method of fixing plastics; it was a test to demonstrate the effectiveness of the adhesive and baking soda powder.

M1 Touchbar

Glue And All

Teardown and Rebuild M1 Touchbar

M1 Preview

M1 Update – Touch bar

Take your time! I can’t stress this enough. This process of building this feature article, the M1 Touchbar, will require time, patience and a steady hand. It is important to take your time and proceed with caution. The article includes over 50 steps, so proper case is essential. If needed, consider seeing a professional help. There are easier alternatives available, but they may be more expensive.

For example, you could purchase the correct make/model upper case where the touch bar does not need to be removed and replaced.  However, finding the right parts may not be as simple as it seems, especially for a model that is just coming out of warranty. This challenge is common when repairing newer or cutting-edge electronics. In some cases, it may be easier to purchase a new computer, second-hand computer and replace only the parts from the existing machine.

Keep Your Work Area Clean, Clean As You Go

We clean up as we go, there were glass fragments before, during and after this process. Handle with caution and care. Glass and debris (dirt, hair, fuzz etc.) must be cleaned up as you go. The goal is to leave it better than the you found it! Ditto on Teardown. The same goes for the battery, battery cable, main screw, hinges, LCD cables, display, display hinge covers, cables (springs), antenna cables and assembly, LCD, remove antennae, main hinge screws, and remove LCD. First, perform an LCD check to ensure the new LCD works.

Disassemble Upper Cables
Board Cables

Board Cable(s)

Unplug Cable

Disconnect Board Cable(s)

Unplug Cable

Unplug Connectors

Unplug Cable

Disconnect all Cable(s)

Board Cable

Board Cable

Starting here with the upper disassembled, we have the main logic board, power brackets, cable brackets. We need to disconnect the trackpad, speakers, logic board flex screws and cables. This is where we can begin the touch bar assembly replacement. Everything is bundled up, with covers, varying screws, and electronics tape. It is important to have your replacement ready once you have removed the main board, speakers, and trackpad. This is where things get tricky!

Continue Disassembly & Board
LCD Removed

LCD Removed

Board Screws

Board Screw(s)

Continue Disassembly

Continue Disassembly

Board Screw

Motherboard Screw(s)

Board Cables

Board Cables

Board Screw

Additional Screw(s)

Board Screw

Clean Motherboard Space

Brush Debris

Brush Debris

Continue Vacuum Debris

Vacuum Debris

It’s handy to have your tool kit out. If not, give Amazon a quick call or pull up iFixit and scroll. You’re going to need adhesive remover, gloves, and glasses you know, the essentials when working with glass, and chemicals on small electronics.

We will start with the flat pry bar on the front (assuming all touch bar parts have been dismantled or ‘torn down’). We will slowly pry and spray our adhesive remover down behind the touch bar glass and the metal upper. It’s more fun if you have more adhesive remover than what we had during the refurb process. Not much left after the mobile device teardowns a few months back.

Touchbar
Touch Assembly

Touch Assembly

Touch Cable

Touch Cable(s)

Touch Cable

Touchbar Cable(s)

Unfold Flex Cable

Unfold Flex Cable(s)

Glue Removal

Glue Remova

Glue Release

Glue Release

Touch Removed<

Touch Removed

ReAttach Touch Cables

Attach Touch Cable(s)

Unfold Flex Cable

Unfold Flex Cable(s)

Ok, so first we remove the glue, glass, and finally the touch bar on the front by accessing it through the upper back. Then, it’s a simple process of replacing the touch bar. We need to be careful to remove the backing that will adhere the M1 Touchbar to the upper case, flex cable in hand through the upper or touch bar bracket and reassemble the touch bar cables and housing.

Throughout the rebuild process, we kept the screen protector film on to protect the screen. Below, you can find a number of images documenting each step of the process. Proceed with caution!

Touchbar Verification
Remove Cover

Remove Cover

Remove Cover

Cover Removed

Power On

Power On

Touch Bar Test

Touch bar Test

Log in

Log In

Unfold Flex Cable

OS Testing

Wrapping up, the M1 Touchbar has been installed, and all parts have been reassembled. Now let’s cover the conclusion. Once the machine is back together, a quick test is needed. We run the machine services mode, working with the drive, and checking what’s on it.

We wipe the main drive, rename it, rebuild it and reinstall it. Some quick terminal snippets and a reboot later, the process is complete. Once reinstalled, we remove any all all software (bloat) that we can, and we are off to the races. This laptop will be used at some point to run ham radio software, so I am hoping to install Linux on the main drive and use it as I have done with my previous machines. Well, that concludes the refurbish process/effort. If you have any questions, feel free to send me an email, Cheers

Series Complete, Review Previous Posts

Lastly, good luck with your own Self Service Repair, and the same goes for the Parts catalog -https://selfservicerepair.com/en-US/home.  The build continues on the M1, so be sure to check out the subsequent articles (5 in total)  M1 Refurb, Visual Inspection and TeardownM1 Touchbar, and Screen & Keys. Enjoy!  A friendly reminder,  It’s vital in my opinion to use OEM parts. IMO (in my opinion), if you can’t, consider second -hand options via Amazon or eBay. Additionally, the parts list is very helpful for those familiar with the process. If you’re not, don’t hesitate to reach out if you’re in a pinch. I’m happy to help or help guide you to the right support method or service.

M1 Screen & Keys

Teardown And Rebuild

M1 Teardown – Screen & Keys

M1 Screen and Keys

M1 Arrow Key, LCD

LCD and keys, can be tedious, be careful and be aware of the process; ‘teardown’ process.

Visual Inspection, Keys

Starting with the easiest part of the refurbishment process – what is the easiest part of the build? The keys. Keys, Screen/LCD and then the touch bar. Please note, the refurbishment process required two teardowns, so to speak. First, let’s verify the working parts and inspect the touch bar on it’s own. The process, you could say, is a one-step job. However, I did this job in two parts for the sake of my own sanity.

The key here, is this: I know that if I could get the screen working, we would be in good shape. Cost aside, I was trying to avoid purchasing the M1 upper case which holds all parts associated with the computer. So, in other words, it’s a no-brainer,  keys on the keyboard, LCD screen, then touch bar.

Teardown
Screws and Bottom Case

Screws and Bottom Case

Apply Suction

Apply Suction

Visual Inspection

Visual Inspection

Battery Cable

Battery Cable

Remove Cable

Remove Cable

Board Screw

Board Screw

A Closer Look

A Closer Look

Screw Removed

Screw Removed

Hinge Covers

Hinge Covers

Cover Screws

Cover Screws

Left Main Hinge

Left Main Hinge

Right Main Hinge

Right Main Hinge

Internal Repair, Replace LCD

Start the teardown bell! We’ve completed our inspection and are beginning with the easiest of the three R/R (remove and replace) parts in this teardown. Keys can sometimes be tricky, so if you are familiar with them, please refer to the video below. If keys are a confusing concept to you, just focus on the left arrow key. There are several online resources available for reference, with Snazzy providing a helpful video walkthrough of the process. We breeze through the key change with ease.

For more detailed information, you can also  check out Snazzy Labs, quick video on how to replace keys. It’s important to note – that there may be some differences between models, especially the M1. That’s why the video is so helpful! The key takeaway is that quick snap keys convenient but can tricky if you are not familiar with how scissor clips work. I recommend purchasing new keys (up, down, left and right) – make sure to get the ‘left arrow’ key) for a simple slide an click installation process. It’s as easy as pie.

Moving On To The Display

So, the cracked screen… We used a clamp tool and suction cups to get under the bottom case. A recommendation: iFixit has a variety of tools and parts for fixing things. We’ll talk more about them later, but we have bought a few items for them. You will also need adhesive remover, can you guess where we got ours? This is not a paid advertisement, but they have some great tools if you don’t have anything in your electric/technical toolbox.

We start by removing the bottom case when replacing the screen. Beginning with the batter cable for the M1 Screen &amp; Key’s fix, it’s important to be carful as cables and parts are delicate and can easily break. So, remove the cable cover, battery cable, and screws. The most nerve-wracking part is dealing with the different sizes of screws, types of drivers, and prying tools required for the job (TORX, pryer(s), spudgers, tweezers etc). Once the battery cables and screws are removed, we can unscrew the hinge covers and move onto the antennas. It can be challenging to see the screws on the antennas, so good luck!

Teardown Upper, Goal LCD Removal
Locate Antennae Bay

Locate Antennae Bay

Remove Cables

Remove Cable(s)

Remove Cables

Remove Cable(s)

Antennae Screw(s)

Antennae Screw(s)

Antennae Screw(s)

Remove Screw(s)

Antennae Screw(s)

Antennae Screw(s)

LCD Removal and Replace

The antenna will need additional cables, screws and bars leading down to the antenna and LCD springs. After installing those items, we will once again remove the antenna wire cover and detach the wires. It is important to exercise caution and be mindful of leaving the piece in better condition than when we found it. When removing covers, do so gently to keep glued area clean and free of debris (we had to address some glass bits). 

Teardown Continues With the Antennae and Cables
Prep Antennae

Prep Antennae

Antennae Screws

Antennae Screw(s)

Antennae Cables

Remove Cable Connectors

Antennae Cables

Antennae Cable(s) Removed

Hinge(s)

Hinge(s)

Antennae Cleared

Antennae Cleared

Once, the antenna bar is clear, the LCD hinge screws will need to be removed, along with the springs and mounting hardware. Voila, the LCD has been detached.

Antennae, Hinges and Test LCD
Remove Display

Remove Display

LCD Hinges

LCD Hinges

Reattach LCD

Reattach LCD

M1 Screen & Keys Wrap Up

This concludes the M1 Screen & Keys section of the refurbishment process. As mentioned earlier, we will now proceed to the touch bar. We went back, replaced all screws and cables to confirm that the LCD swap and key are working as expected, and we found that the touch bar was not working. We verified all parts (sans the touch bar) continued with wiping and cleaning in the following post. If you missed the first three articles, you can find those here: 1. Self Repair, 2. Refurb, and 3. Visual Inspection, Teardown. Cheers.

M1 Visual Inspection & Teardown

Work To Identify Norms, Baseline Tests

M1 Inspection – Screen, Touch bar & Keys

M1 Screen, Touch bar and Keys

M1 Inspection Report

Time will be relevant here, take your time, clean up as you go; we will be replacing several items, the screen, touch bar and keys on the M1 MBP.

Inspection, Condition

First, let’s start with the inspection. Let’s call it the M1 Visual Inspection & Teardown. Shall we begin? We will start with the physical inspection, then move into the software inspection, computational tests and gather the relevant information to start the refurbishment. So, what is the physical damage? Does this damage impact the computers ability to function or compute? In turn, we want to know where the damage is and how it might impact the machine’s performance, computing power, UI (User Interface) etc…

Visual Hardware Inspection
Top Case

Top Case

Case Corners

Left Bottom Case Corner

Case Corners

Corner Right

Case Corners

Side Case Blemishing

Screen Issues

Screen Issues

Touch Issues

Touch Issues

Keys

Keys

Keys & Touch

Keys & Touch

Sand, Glass Debris

Sand, Glass Debris

Secondly, we can observe screen issues, such as LCD problems where the screen is affected by broken glass or screen distortion. Upon close examination, scratches and broken/cracked glass can be seen in the black sublayer of the LCD screen. At the bottom of the display, near the hinge, and just about the touch bar. There may have been some debris or object inside this screen area when the computer was closed by the user. At least, that is my hunch.

Now, as for the case, the metal case appears worn but not excessively so. All corners have some damage, scratches, etc., but overall it seems okay (the case did it’s job). There is nothing that raises a red flag indicating damage that could cause internal or computing issues.

Interfaces: LCD, Trackpad and Keyboard

Thirdly, in the next step of the M1 Visual Inspection & Teardown article, let’s inspect the keyboard. The directional arrow is missing and the touch bar is no longer illuminating… I wonder if the key came off and damaged the screen some how? Not likely, but something appears to have been closed in the laptop where the touch bar and screen would meet upon closing the laptop. Another takeaway is that the machine may need an overhaul, or a new upper (upper case, which can be extremely expensive as it will include all parts ).

Finally, parting out, or fixing each piece, individually is not recommended. Now a disclaimer – this is my own machine. Typically ,items under warranty will be processed through Apple via Apple Care. Utilize Apple Care or Apple+ where you can, assuming you’ve purchased the warranty/insurance. If not, things can get expensive. There are resources out there as you can imagine. Hopefully posts like this and those following help to provide some guidance in dire straits.

Ok, now that we got that out, let’s get to the first fix; this left arrow key and LCD screen. Quickly, see other articles linked to this story: Self Repair, Refurb, Screen & Keys and Touchbar