fixed Archives

Call this fixed. Workarounds, fixes and general maintenance, will keep your devices, tech and other wares running as intended. Fixed right.

August 20, 2024September 27, 2024

Dolphin On

Maytronics Nautilus CC Plus Repair Update

Dolphin On

Lab Work – Maytronics Repair, Dolphin On, Post Hurricane

Parts are in, Dolphin Has Been Repaired, Cleaning Away

Let’s take a closer look at the process. Upon further inspection, I found corrosion around the motors. The seal around the power cord also appears to be in poor condition. So, I proceed with a teardown, replacing the power unit, and tread ball bearings to restore the robot back to full capacity with genuine OEM parts. A self-test was performed as need, I conducted a number of in-water and out-of-water tests which worked perfectly. As it should, under normal power. Next, I replaced all parts and picked up where we left off on the last article Nautilus Down (check that out if you missed it).

Pre-Check, Install and Test

Check all cogs, ball bearings, drive pin, and wheel/hub parts. Make sure ball bearings are moving freely and free of rust or degradation. Replaced any parts showing degradation or major rust. Filled electronic parts and pressure seals with pool lube and reconnected parts, careful to screw-down fasteners and plastic nuts with appropriate tension. Dolphin On. Additionally, both out-of-water and in-the-water tests performed as expected. Time for a swim! Cinched down any screws, or screens, package up the robot and ran the clean cycle.

Robot Build

New Unit

Unit Connector

Dry Fit

Tread Check

Proper Fit

Motor Check

Dry Test

Post Test

Brush Down and Toggle The Dolphin On

If you can’t tell, the pool has sand, debris and dragonflies. Before we toggle the Dolphin On, let’s do a quick brush down of the pool to encourage removal. You can kind of see here the pool was a bit dirty, as the hurricane kicked up enough debris for the Dolphin to clean. There was no pool cage carnage, or aluminum part failure, which is great. Minor screen damage only.

Maytronics Documents and More

Finally, following the test cycles, Dolphin on, put in the water and cleaned the pool well. In most cases, the vacuum actively cleans on stage 1, please the Maytronics manuals. Find Stage 1 testing and more robot testing features under the Nautilus CC Plus section. I hope this information helps, how to get your pool robot fixed and Dolphin On. If anyone out there needs assistance, please contact me I am happy to help. Thanks! As usual leave a comment below to let us know what you’re thinking!

August 14, 2024September 27, 2024

Dolphin Down

Maytronics Nautilus CC Plus Repair

Dolphin Down, Waiting On Parts

Lab Work – Maytronics Repair, Dolphin Down. Let’s fix the Nautilus CC Plus

Looks like a new motor unit is required. Full teardown ahead.

Exciting news! A new series, Dolphin Down, is coming soon. This series is related to the repair of the Maytronics Dolphin Nautilus CC Plus. Currently, we are awaiting the arrival of a new motor unit. In the meantime, we are in the process of dismantling the Nautilus CC Plus robot in search of a malfunctioning drive motor.

The fan motor is functioning properly, passing both tests passed – underwater and out-of-water tests. The multimeter has confirmed that the drive motor is not working. The circuit board appears to be in good, working condition confirmed by the blinking green LEDs. The LEDs indicating that it is functioning as expected. This a positive sign for our robot and the repair diagnosis.

Robot Teardown

Housing

Screen Key

Prop Screen

Cord

Internals

Motor Unit

Remove Prop

Prop Residue

Sealed Cord

To begin the teardown process, find a safe spot and grab a multi-tool with pliers, flathead and cross bits (Phillips bits). Start by removing the power cord from the unit and unplugging the unit from the wall if necessary. First, on the Dolphin, unscrew the four screws under the filter doors to remove the top. Use the transparent or white flathead key or knob to pop open the propeller gate, which is easily accessible once the filter doors are open.

Next, slide the cord out from under the blue, body cover after removing the four main screws. Adjust the cord, remove the floats and be careful when removing the side panels. These panels should just pop off top down. Just be aware of the tabs on the bottom of the panels, this is what hold the body shells in place. Use the pliers to unscrew the blue cord connected to the power unit, as well as the four screws holding the two yellow cord strips to the unit. Unscrew the four unit screws holding the motor unit in place and it will be free.

Robot Teardown

Drive Bearings

Motor Unit

Motor Case

Remove Unit

Board Check

Drive Motor

Finally, check all cogs, drive belts, and wheel/hub parts. Ensure that the ball bearings are moving freely, unobstructed and are free of rust or degradation. Replace any parts that showing degradation, wear or significant rust. Fill with lubricant and reconnect parts, being careful to screw with appropriate tension. Test the robot out of water first, followed by half-submerged and fully submerged underwater tests. *Updated – Check out the repair – Dolphin On or the first post we commented on regarding the Maytronics Nautilus Dolphin for more information on troubleshooting, maintenance and repairs. More information will be provided in the next *5 business days, as we will be receiving the new motor unit packaging up the robot and running the cleaning cycle. Thank you.

As always, feel free to leave a comment below, let us know your thoughts!

May 16, 2024September 27, 2024

Fix 3D Prints and Plastics

Be Creative Without the Hassle

Quick Fix With Glue(Super) and Baking Soda

Strong Adhesives, Baking Soda and Spray Activator/Hardener Light

Fix plastics, wood lures, wood carvings and more. Fix 3d Prints and Plastics better than traditional fillers or bonding agents.

Adhesives, Clean Up/Deburring

Starbond Kit – Starbond Kit – Glue & Activator Starbond – Super Fast Thin Glue JB Weld – J-B Weld Bonder (2) Pack AFA Tooling – AFA Tooling Deburring Tools
Dremel Tool – Dremel High Performance Rotary Tool Kit

In A Tight Spot, Choose Super Adhesive and Baking Soda

Need a quick fix, while out fishing in the field? Or did a new 3D print break during the clean up process? What should you do now? For a quick fix, simply grab some extra strength glue, our choice, Starbond, Starbond activator, baking soda and start the filling process. This method works on wood, plastics, and more. By using baking soda as the ‘filler’ and the super adhesive as the bonding agent, you’ll have a quick fix in no time.

If you need to clean up your 3D Printables, clean up or deburr plastics and filler using super adhesives and baking soda, deburring tools are a must. When producing items from plastics or resin compounds such as wood, metals and plastics, the production process isn’t perfect, leaving you with work post production. Tasks like, trimming for metal stamping or removing travel or supports in the 3D printing process, require specific tools. We recommend AFA Deburring Tools for hand scraping and clean up, as well as the Dremel Rotary Tool for tile, clay, woods and metals. These tools are handy to have around the shop for various tasks.

Finally, for those tough jobs, or bonds, try JB Weld (J-B Weld Amazon Store). There are many applications for JB weld. Whether it’s loose or broken tiles, outdoor furniture, or any other project, JB Weld Epoxy and adhesives will create a strong and lasting bond using chemical bonding resins.

For a comprehensive list of all products mentioned above, please refer to our affiliate shopping list for ideas, product information, and more. Here are some products you may want to consider! Please note that this is just one method of fixing plastics; it was a test to demonstrate the effectiveness of the adhesive and baking soda powder.

May 10, 2024September 27, 2024

M1 Touchbar

Glue And All

Teardown and Rebuild M1 Touchbar

M1 Update – Touch bar

Take your time! I can’t stress this enough. This process of building this feature article, the M1 Touchbar, will require time, patience and a steady hand. It is important to take your time and proceed with caution. The article includes over 50 steps, so proper case is essential. If needed, consider seeing a professional help. There are easier alternatives available, but they may be more expensive.

For example, you could purchase the correct make/model upper case where the touch bar does not need to be removed and replaced. However, finding the right parts may not be as simple as it seems, especially for a model that is just coming out of warranty. This challenge is common when repairing newer or cutting-edge electronics. In some cases, it may be easier to purchase a new computer, second-hand computer and replace only the parts from the existing machine.

Keep Your Work Area Clean, Clean As You Go

We clean up as we go, there were glass fragments before, during and after this process. Handle with caution and care. Glass and debris (dirt, hair, fuzz etc.) must be cleaned up as you go. The goal is to leave it better than the you found it! Ditto on Teardown. The same goes for the battery, battery cable, main screw, hinges, LCD cables, display, display hinge covers, cables (springs), antenna cables and assembly, LCD, remove antennae, main hinge screws, and remove LCD. First, perform an LCD check to ensure the new LCD works.

Disassemble Upper Cables

Board Cable(s)

Disconnect Board Cable(s)

Unplug Connectors

Disconnect all Cable(s)

Board Cable

Starting here with the upper disassembled, we have the main logic board, power brackets, cable brackets. We need to disconnect the trackpad, speakers, logic board flex screws and cables. This is where we can begin the touch bar assembly replacement. Everything is bundled up, with covers, varying screws, and electronics tape. It is important to have your replacement ready once you have removed the main board, speakers, and trackpad. This is where things get tricky!

Continue Disassembly & Board

LCD Removed

Board Screw(s)

Continue Disassembly

Motherboard Screw(s)

Board Cables

Additional Screw(s)

Clean Motherboard Space

Brush Debris

Vacuum Debris

It’s handy to have your tool kit out. If not, give Amazon a quick call or pull up iFixit and scroll. You’re going to need adhesive remover, gloves, and glasses you know, the essentials when working with glass, and chemicals on small electronics.

We will start with the flat pry bar on the front (assuming all touch bar parts have been dismantled or ‘torn down’). We will slowly pry and spray our adhesive remover down behind the touch bar glass and the metal upper. It’s more fun if you have more adhesive remover than what we had during the refurb process. Not much left after the mobile device teardowns a few months back.

Touchbar

Touch Assembly

Touch Cable(s)

Touchbar Cable(s)

Unfold Flex Cable(s)

Glue Remova

Glue Release

Touch Removed

Attach Touch Cable(s)

Unfold Flex Cable(s)

Ok, so first we remove the glue, glass, and finally the touch bar on the front by accessing it through the upper back. Then, it’s a simple process of replacing the touch bar. We need to be careful to remove the backing that will adhere the M1 Touchbar to the upper case, flex cable in hand through the upper or touch bar bracket and reassemble the touch bar cables and housing.

Throughout the rebuild process, we kept the screen protector film on to protect the screen. Below, you can find a number of images documenting each step of the process. Proceed with caution!

Touchbar Verification

Remove Cover

Cover Removed

Power On

Touch bar Test

OS Testing

Wrapping up, the M1 Touchbar has been installed, and all parts have been reassembled. Now let’s cover the conclusion. Once the machine is back together, a quick test is needed. We run the machine services mode, working with the drive, and checking what’s on it.

We wipe the main drive, rename it, rebuild it and reinstall it. Some quick terminal snippets and a reboot later, the process is complete. Once reinstalled, we remove any all all software (bloat) that we can, and we are off to the races. This laptop will be used at some point to run ham radio software, so I am hoping to install Linux on the main drive and use it as I have done with my previous machines. Well, that concludes the refurbish process/effort. If you have any questions, feel free to send me an email, Cheers

Series Complete, Review Previous Posts

Lastly, good luck with your own Self Service Repair, and the same goes for the Parts catalog -https://selfservicerepair.com/en-US/home. The build continues on the M1, so be sure to check out the subsequent articles (5 in total) M1 Refurb, Visual Inspection and Teardown, M1 Touchbar, and Screen & Keys. Enjoy! A friendly reminder, It’s vital in my opinion to use OEM parts. IMO (in my opinion), if you can’t, consider second -hand options via Amazon or eBay. Additionally, the parts list is very helpful for those familiar with the process. If you’re not, don’t hesitate to reach out if you’re in a pinch. I’m happy to help or help guide you to the right support method or service.

March 22, 2024September 27, 2024

M1 Screen & Keys

Teardown And Rebuild

M1 Teardown – Screen & Keys

M1 Arrow Key, LCD

LCD and keys, can be tedious, be careful and be aware of the process; ‘teardown’ process.

Visual Inspection, Keys

Starting with the easiest part of the refurbishment process – what is the easiest part of the build? The keys. Keys, Screen/LCD and then the touch bar. Please note, the refurbishment process required two teardowns, so to speak. First, let’s verify the working parts and inspect the touch bar on it’s own. The process, you could say, is a one-step job. However, I did this job in two parts for the sake of my own sanity.

The key here, is this: I know that if I could get the screen working, we would be in good shape. Cost aside, I was trying to avoid purchasing the M1 upper case which holds all parts associated with the computer. So, in other words, it’s a no-brainer, keys on the keyboard, LCD screen, then touch bar.

Teardown

Screws and Bottom Case

Apply Suction

Visual Inspection

Battery Cable

Remove Cable

Board Screw

A Closer Look

Screw Removed

Hinge Covers

Cover Screws

Left Main Hinge

Right Main Hinge

Internal Repair, Replace LCD

Start the teardown bell! We’ve completed our inspection and are beginning with the easiest of the three R/R (remove and replace) parts in this teardown. Keys can sometimes be tricky, so if you are familiar with them, please refer to the video below. If keys are a confusing concept to you, just focus on the left arrow key. There are several online resources available for reference, with Snazzy providing a helpful video walkthrough of the process. We breeze through the key change with ease.

For more detailed information, you can also check out Snazzy Labs, quick video on how to replace keys. It’s important to note – that there may be some differences between models, especially the M1. That’s why the video is so helpful! The key takeaway is that quick snap keys convenient but can tricky if you are not familiar with how scissor clips work. I recommend purchasing new keys (up, down, left and right) – make sure to get the ‘left arrow’ key) for a simple slide an click installation process. It’s as easy as pie.

Moving On To The Display

So, the cracked screen… We used a clamp tool and suction cups to get under the bottom case. A recommendation: iFixit has a variety of tools and parts for fixing things. We’ll talk more about them later, but we have bought a few items for them. You will also need adhesive remover, can you guess where we got ours? This is not a paid advertisement, but they have some great tools if you don’t have anything in your electric/technical toolbox.

We start by removing the bottom case when replacing the screen. Beginning with the batter cable for the M1 Screen & Key’s fix, it’s important to be carful as cables and parts are delicate and can easily break. So, remove the cable cover, battery cable, and screws. The most nerve-wracking part is dealing with the different sizes of screws, types of drivers, and prying tools required for the job (TORX, pryer(s), spudgers, tweezers etc). Once the battery cables and screws are removed, we can unscrew the hinge covers and move onto the antennas. It can be challenging to see the screws on the antennas, so good luck!

Teardown Upper, Goal LCD Removal

Locate Antennae Bay

Remove Cable(s)

Antennae Screw(s)

Remove Screw(s)

Antennae Screw(s)

LCD Removal and Replace

The antenna will need additional cables, screws and bars leading down to the antenna and LCD springs. After installing those items, we will once again remove the antenna wire cover and detach the wires. It is important to exercise caution and be mindful of leaving the piece in better condition than when we found it. When removing covers, do so gently to keep glued area clean and free of debris (we had to address some glass bits).

Teardown Continues With the Antennae and Cables

Prep Antennae

Antennae Screw(s)

Remove Cable Connectors

Antennae Cable(s) Removed

Hinge(s)

Antennae Cleared

Once, the antenna bar is clear, the LCD hinge screws will need to be removed, along with the springs and mounting hardware. Voila, the LCD has been detached.

Antennae, Hinges and Test LCD

Remove Display

LCD Hinges

Reattach LCD

M1 Screen & Keys Wrap Up

This concludes the M1 Screen & Keys section of the refurbishment process. As mentioned earlier, we will now proceed to the touch bar. We went back, replaced all screws and cables to confirm that the LCD swap and key are working as expected, and we found that the touch bar was not working. We verified all parts (sans the touch bar) continued with wiping and cleaning in the following post. If you missed the first three articles, you can find those here: 1. Self Repair, 2. Refurb, and 3. Visual Inspection, Teardown. Cheers.

January 19, 2024September 27, 2024

Quick Tip – Float

Stop Running Water

Pesky Toilet – Fix Running Water Issue

Toilet Running? Quick Tip – Check the Float, Stop the Water Flow Correctly.

Quick Tip: Is your toilet leaking or running? Start by checking for a few common issues. Is the water continuously filling the toilet? This could indicate a water shutoff problem. Is the flap broken, deteriorating, or blocked by debris like a tank cleaner puck or tablet?

Here are two simple steps to fix the problem we are trying to solve in this quick tip article regarding floats and flaps. First, check the flap. Is it the correct size and in good condition? If not, replace it. Adjust the flap sinker and chain as needed. Second, check the float. Make sure it is floating properly to shut off the water once the tank reaches the set float height. Fixing these issues can help stop your toilet from leaking or running.

Toilet Inspection, Repair

Visual Inspection

Unscrew Water Hose

Tank Screw

Replace Flap

Water Pipe

Screw Water Hose

When it comes to toilet repair, there are few things you need to check, such as water height and water pressure. For a quick fix, start by turning off the water, draining the tank, vacuuming out any remaining water (having a bucket nearby can be helpful in tight spaces). Let’s loosen the plastic nut(which is a common material these days) that connects the tank to the water spout. Do the same for the float nut, which is the other connection point under the tank for modern toilets.

Once the hose and float have been removed, along with the float assembly and hose connecting the ‘out flow’ pipe, which may be another potential leak point, replace what was removed with new materials and turn the water back on. And just like that, your toilet is fixed. It may not be a technical task, but everyone has a toilet, and appliances and fixtures can break down from time to time. Keep this handy tip in mind for the next time.

Like the quick fix format? Check out other quick fix content here such as this disposal problems fix. Like the learn to descale your coffee equipment – pots and machines. Much like this fix a toilet float article… clean and fixpool filter housing and filter problem or try a cell phone charging hack… Check them out!

October 8, 2023September 27, 2024

Part 5 Part 5 – Rebuild And Upgrade

Sonic Pad Adjustments, Assembly

Labwork – Upgrade Part 5

Finally, a moment to enjoy and success is here. Everyone has been eagerly anticipating a full print test of the Ender 3 Max Neo, Sonic Pad, and Creality TPU. The full print was successful without the need for a dreaded motherboard upgrade.

No motherboard upgrade is needed at this time! We just need more time to print and tweak, print and tweak. Success! A fresh print, an end-to-end cube test print… just look at the ironing, ‘it’s alive, it’s alive’. It may seem like a small win, but it is a win nonetheless. The config/console appears to be correct, which is no surprise, I’m looking into a few more tweaks in the end.

Upgrade Continues

Let’s highlight a few things. An update was overdue, especially this one celebrating the print test win. Check. After a very early start this morning (the pictures are included below) we’ve got the Ender 3 Max Neo producing TPU test prints with minimal blips, blurbs, zits, stringing etc. All good things.

The key takeaway, is that delta refers to extrusion setting, which controls the direct drive pressure on the filament. s… These settings can be found in the advanced settings under extrusion settings. A reminder for those using the Creality Sonic Pad interface: if you are using the onboard interface, you will need to look for something called “steps” or a way to control the stepper. In layman’s terms, this refers to the ‘pressure in steps’ needed to push filament through the extruder.

In Part 5, we highlights the success of the extrusion win, along with making other minor tweaks such as adjusting the heat at the tip, improving bed adhesion, and adjusting speed to match the Sprite Extrusion settings. We found that print temps between 220-240 C, depending on the filament type – Duramic or Creality TPU. Additionally, we increased the flow rate by an additional 25%, bringing it to 125%, and reduced the speed by 25% approximately 75%. Therefore, the settings are as follows: 220C – 240C Nozzle – 75C Bed – 75% Speed – 125% Flow Rate – Sprite Extrusion Settings Enabled.

Currently, some additional adjustments are being made to the movement settings in Part 5. The Z height appears to require some minor adjustments in specific areas, although the reason for this is unclear. It could be related to the differences between the initial layers and the subsequent layers. 3D printers enable users to control various settings throughout three stages of the printing process: the beginning, middle and end.

3D Printer Upgrade Inspiration

Evening Print

Halot Reflection

Sonic Pad

Adjustments

Spider Hot End

First Globule

Test Cube

Failed Test Cube

One other thing to mention, which I failed to include in my previous post, Part 4 is that bed adhesion continues to be an issue. It could be the dark horse among the issues at play. A quick fix for bed adhesion is using alcohol and paper towels to keep the adhesion plate clear and clean! Make sure to throughly clean the plate by scrubbing away any oil residue, filament, blips, dust, stringing, dog hair (thanks, Zeus), and any other debris that might accumulate on the build plate in a typical office environment.

I don’t recall if keeping the plate clean actually made a difference when it comes to cleaning the bed, but we have tried a few different methods. We experimented with a clean bed, a taped bed (using Blue Painters Taps), and a sprayed/glue stick adhesive bed. All in an effort to find an alternative solution for prints shifting on the bed surface. We will also be posting some build plate test and will be trying spray adhesives next. Could that be the answer?

More Adjustments

A few adjustments with the Hex (Allen) keys, resetting the rail wheels, and we’ve successfully completed Part 5. Looking back, I’m not sure if the build plate really needed to be cleaned between PLA prints. If you look closely a the picture, you’ll see that the Creality Sonic Pad is now operational as planned. Personally, I don’t think I would have kept the generic screen that originally came with the machine. The Wifi, Cloud Printing/Slicing, direct printing, and customizable settings are all key reasons to stick with the Sonic Pad.

One item to note, is that we have not been able to get the Wifi Box 2.0 to work in the upgraded sandbox. Furthermore, for the time being, we will set aside the Wifi Box 2.0 until we can determine the optimal print settings and ensure consistent adhesion. Despite this, we are staying positive and moving forward with larger format prints, including some TinkerCad projects for a true test. Additionally, it is worth mentioning that we have relocated the printer from the workbench. The tabletop did not provide the necessary stability due to the incessant shaking, vibration, and back-and-forth motions of the printer assembly.

Overall, today is a win after having the printer on the bench for the past few weeks. Check out the previous series articles – Part 1 Teardown, Part 2, Part 3 and Part 4. We are on an upswing, with new parts, new break-fix settings, slicing settings and a new location for the 3D printer to operate. For those interested in what’s coming next, I have a backlog of TPU Max Neo parts, including a new digital spool, some technology ‘smartphone covers’, and a unique locking mechanism for a cooler. More details on that later.

August 30, 2023September 27, 2024

Disposal Problem

Food and Debris Stuck, Fix A Disposal Problem

No Grind, Time For A New Disposal

Lab Work – Emergency Fix

A few weeks ago, had a minor issue with the sink disposal. The picture here is speaks volumes about the problem we encountered.

Once the problem was identified, it was clear that we needed to replace the disposal unit. Upon closer inspection, we found that rust had caused significant damage internally. I had to remove the seal and screws to crack open the top of the disposal unit. Honestly, I was surprised by how worn out the unit was. It was definitely time for a replacement, and were fortunate to have discovered the issue when we did.

Disposal Parts and Install

New Disposal Install

Debris Filter

Clean Teeth

Interior View

Next, the title, “Disposal Problem ‘no grind’, time to replace it a new title. Unfortunately, the 1/2 replacement had a short in the wiring. Being a conscientious consumer, I decided to upgrade to the new InSinkErator 3/4 hp, which you can see here. It was a smart choice as it was the same brand and fit perfectly in the cabinet space. You can see the final installation below. These disposal units are usually plug and play, assuming that piping and plugs are readily available and identical. For this reason, I stuck with the same brand, hoping for seamless setup.

Next, I didn’t want to hack away at the existing piping, cabinetry etc, just want to maintain and in this case boost the output. You’ll see a slight increase in HP, a plastic outer case/shell and a sparkly new (newly cleaned) lower cabinet for it’s foreseeable future. What a mess. Moving along, fix in place, watch what you put down the sink etc. Remember to check the sealant between the disposal and connector. We had a little leakage that has now been remedied. Not bad, virtually the same machine, replaced, tools – pliers, pipe wrench, flathead, pipe tape and a small bin in case of water leaks or intrusion in the future.

Like the quick fix format? Check out other quick fix content here such as this disposal problems fix. Learn how to descale your coffee equipment – pots and machines, fix a toilet float, clean and fixpool filter housing and filter problem or try a cell phone charging hack… Check them out!

Finally, hopefully (fingers-crossed), you can learn a thing or two. Be sure to unplug disposals, have some extra ‘shop’ towels to mop up excess water or worse, sink goo. Make sure local power outlets are off and to be safe, turn off water where applicable.

August 22, 2023September 27, 2024

Quick Fix – Nano Mixer

Nano Mixer Fix

Bloom’n Again, Mixer Back In Action

Tech | Tools – Frother Quick Fix

Quick Fix – Disassemble, Clean, New Batteries…

Quickly stir in sugar and milk, mix up your protein powders and fine particulates; all made easy with the Bloom mixer. I wanted to share a quick fix, as our nano mixer quit on us a few weeks back. Typically, the morning and afternoon espresso is ‘cut’ with a few granules of sugar and some half and half… as I get older, the trend has been ‘lighter and sweeter’… any how, here is the internal works of the mixer, teardown – a few screws, clean up, reset the metal prongs and a new set of batteries and we were back in business. Mixing up protein powder, scrambling eggs and espresso/coffee.

Just a note, be sure to keep the lower body (green structural plastic in the picture) dry if you can, there is a bit of a seal there… but better safe than dropping $20 – $40 on a new one. Again, here is the link for the Bloom variety, I think the mixer has been updated since the date of purchase.

We’ve tried the ‘mini blenders’ like the Bullet’s, and the hand blenders, the top of the line so to speak, with the blenders… there are advantages to all, negatives as well. The Bloom mixer is great, now that we got a Quick Fix – Nano Mixer running again. Nice mixer for the small stuff, no need to plug anything in, or clean up pre-made cups etc. Magic Bullet style mixers were great for ‘bullet coffee’*.

Make Bullet Coffee

Never heard of bullet coffee. Make some coffee in a Bodum or Colleti.. or choose your home Coffee Machine. See below. There are a few of the nano/hand mixers on the market, and Amazon can help you find one that fits your budget. I’ve included some below so you can make your own ‘bullet coffee’, with links included…

*Bullet Coffee Recipe: Full Fat Butter, Raw Coconut Oil, espresso/coffee of choice – Nespresso Pods – Tokyo Vivalto Lungo, a few spins of the mixer, and you’re done.

In conclusion, I’ll probably post more about espresso machines, specifically the Nespresso machine. Stay tuned for more. Thanks!

April 14, 2023September 27, 2024

Halot Sky Break-fix

Halot Troubleshooting Break-fix

Creality Halot Sky – Resin Liner Change Out

Lab Work – Working Out The Bugs, Halot Sky Resin Printer

Before you begin you own 3D printing, journey, including purchasing a 3D printer, we need to discuss break-fix: the Halot Sky Break-fix which follows up on the LCD replacement just a few months ago. It is crucial to understand how to maintain and troubleshoot printers. The same applies to addressing major printing issues, such as breaking down the entire printer to the board level. This also includes dealing with misprints, which can occur frequently. Proper care, cleaning, and resin management are essential tasks, including swapping resin liners and cleaning resin drips meticulously.

Liner Change

Liner Frame

New Liner

Attached are few sneak peek video clips and photos of our latest test prints and demos. We have some ‘real-world’ solutions coming soon. More creations on 3D software and 3D applications such as TinkerCad, Autodesk – AutoCad, Creality (design) software, SolidWorks and more. We have started with TinkerCad and AutoCad so that we can print prototypes and finish products within a few hours. Got any ideas? Need 3d prints? Leave us a comment or drop us a line on the Connect. Please include: file type, filament, sizes etc. Let’s see what we can come up with! As usual leave a comment below, let us know what you’re thinking?