Lab Work – Perhaps, the best way to show ‘work’ or work in progress; in most cases, the purpose is to highlight the struggle to find a solution, the test effort and the learning that takes place when fixing stuff. Or another way to share various phases of the problem solving process – hypothesize: test, learn and apply.

TPU Upgrade Process

Rebuild, Direct Drive, Build Plate and Tech Upgrades

TPU Action – Upgrade Process

Completed Build

Max Neo Upgrades: The Upgrade Process, Part of the TPU Action Series

Now, let’s discuss the Creality Max Neo 3D Printer Upgrade – unboxing, teardown, install of upgrade parts. Our goal is to improve TPU scalability and production quality. As a side note, we received a refurbished Max Neo and will cover the PETG settings and troubleshooting process in our next article.

We have already discussed the reasons for upgrading the parts and quality benefits it brings. We have purchased the necessary parts for the updates to increase our success rates. Now, let’s move on to the physical upgrade.

Unbox Upgrades

Let’s get started, shall we? We have  got our boxes and can officially begin the TPU Upgrade process. All parts have been unboxed, including the new extruder with direct drive that features an easy-to-install quick connect with locks on the print head. Additionally, we have the rail cart for bolting the extruder to the rail and powering it with the axis motors. Next, we have the new silent motherboard, which is necessary for installing the Creality Sprite Extruder Pro kit. Secondly, we have the new bed plate ready to go. Once the process is complete, we will test the machine first without the upgrade and then with it to ensure everything is printing smoothly.

Unbox Parts, Printer Teardown and  Disassembly References
Motherboard v4.2.7

Motherboard v4.2.7

WiFi Box 2.0

WiFi Box 2.0

Sprite Extruder Pro Kit

Sprite Extruder Pro Kit

Sprite Assembly Pro Unboxing

Sprite Extruder Pro

Power Down

Power Down

Unplug

Unplug

Prep Screen & Unplug

Prep Screen & Unplug

Disconnect Motors

Disconnect Motors

Starting the TPU upgrade process? Let’s begin by removing all power cords. If you have a Wifi 2.0 Box or Sonic Pad, those should also be powered down and their cords removed. I prefer to start fresh with no cords. Now, we have our tech tools. I  will post a link to the shopping list following this post. If you have the original set of tools provided by Creality at purchase, those will work just fine.

Begin Teardown, Be Careful and Take Your Time

Let’s dismantle the printer by taking apart the extruder and the extruder rail cart. After removing a few bolts, we should have the printing area cleared. It’s worth noting that this particular printer has previously been upgraded making the direct drive easily accessible.  For more information on the original direct drive build you can refer to the Ender Teardown, Rebuild – 5 Part Series. In the series, you will see the filament being removed, power cables unclipped, e-touch and cable connections from the extruder to the board, bolts being removed, cart being taken out, and extruder being detached. The printing area should now be free of extruder parts and the rail cart

Look around the 3D printer frame, specifically the drivers, those should be unclipped as well. I also like to disconnect the screen here. There is a clip on the back: the ribbon connector can be unclipped and set aside. Now, gently lift and turn the machine clockwise, placing the machine on its right side or screen side (which has been removed for this exact reason).

The top screw does not need to be removed here; it is one of 4 or 5 screws that hold the motherboard to the base Start by unscrewing the right-hand side first (motherboard side), being careful to unplug the 0.10 A computer fan clip, and then move on to the left side (power side). Ribbons, cords, and wires of various shades and colors may have shifted around a bit, especially in this case, as the printer was previously upgraded. Therefore, electrical wires or shield tape may be wound tightly. Be gentle with the cover screws, as they will be used again in approximately 15 – 30 minutes.

Unbox and Preparation
Motherboard v4.2.7

Motherboard v4.2.7

WiFi Box 2.0

WiFi Box 2.0

Sprite Extruder Pro Kit

Sprite Extruder Pro Kit

Sprite Extruder Pro Unboxing

Sprite Extruder Pro

Power Down

Power Down

Unplug

Unplug

Prep Screen & Unplug

Prep Screen & Unplug

Disconnect Motors

Disconnect Motors

Take a look around, assume if you have tilted the machine clockwise on it’s side by roughly 90 degrees and removed the screws. On the left, we are examining power management, and on the right, control.

Equally important, a visual inspection will reveal hot glue on all or most of the motherboard connectors, depending on the condition of the machine.

If the machine is new or refurbished, hot glue is common, so don’t be alarmed!

This is to be expected for Creality machines. We will begin removing the glue using a spudger, hemostats and/or gloved hand. In this process, we start from right to left, starting with the screen connector (rainbow ribbon), the top connector marked GV IN G OUT, the mini two-wire connectors (grey and the black axis wires), the fan wires (yellow and blue), and the red, yellow and black harness. Ignore the power wires for now, we will be address those in the third step. Next, we will move to the top of the board to disconnect the X, Y, Z and E black wire harnesses. You’re almost there, you can do this!

Disassemble Extruder and Motherboard
Internal Fan

Internal Fan

Unscrew Power Cover

Unscrew Power Cover

Power Unit

Power Unit

Unscrew Housing

Unscrew Housing

Motherboard

Motherboard

Hot Glue Removal

Hot Glue Removal

Right-to-left

Start Right-to-left

Disconnect Cables

Disconnect Cables

Fans & Power

Fans & Power

Disconnect Power

Disconnect Power

All Connections

All Connections

Remove Board

Remove Board

Let’s move on to the green locks next. Using a flat head screwdriver, start from right to left to unscrew and remove the red and black wires. Voila! We are now 50% complete. The glue removal process usually takes the longest, making it challenging to navigate the board space. Let’s unscrew the board from the frame (unscrew the two bolts on the front), leaving the last screw on the top, removing the top from the frame. Unscrew the motherboard and set it aside for safekeeping or for use in another refurbished printer in the future. Take a moment to check around the frame, organize the screws and bolts (I recommend using a piece of paper and a Sharpie). Draw a box label it,  and tape the hardware screws securely. 

Motherboard and Extruder Installation

Straightaway, let’s start by removing the new motherboard from its package, if you have not already done so, and placing it into the motherboard (control) space. Additionally,  make sure to safely connect the USB and MicroSD connectors on the board first, then align the board with the appropriate screw mounts on the board. Once the screws are in place, the board should sit firmly in place, secured and ready to go!

Reassemble 3D Printer, Upgrade Reference
Attach New Board

Attach New Board

Left-to-right

Left-to-right

+ and -

+ and –

Fans and Motors

Fans and Motors

Upper Cables

Upper Cables

Seat Cables

Seat Cables

Okay, in reverse, the TPU Upgrade process continues with the new Sprite Extruder raw wire ends. Start by securing the green motherboard locks first, moving from left to right. The power from the power unit should be on the side of the board, with alternative red/back wires. Make sure to read the labels to ensure the correct landing spot for those power wires. Next, connect the yellow/blue fan and the red, yellow, and black wires just below the fan connector. Moving right replace the x-, y- , z-, TB, TH, and GV IN G OUT connections. Now, connect the screen ribbon. Double-check all fittings and  secure the green locks on the board to ensure a snug fit.

Finally, when working on the motherboard, let’s replace the screws on the power unit side carefully. Run the wires through the notched metal railing and secure the front bolts for the control cover, bottom screws, and the top screws. This is a critical area where you must exercise caution, as the cables can easily break. Take your time here.

Post Installation Checks, Screws, Belts and More

Continuing on, secure the Pro Extruder Kit. Lift, turn, and place the printer  in its center. All wires, ribbons and connectors are ready for the new drive. Next, install the extruder and fit it to the assembly cart. Thirdly, connect the e-touch ribbon cable, seat the cable so that is snug. Fourthly, seat the red hot wire creating a connection between the hot end and the extruder. It may have a tight fit, so now is the time to place the wire while the extruder is loose on the cart. Secure the extruder to the cart mounting point by placing the screws and tightening them down. Moreover, ensure a secure and tight connection, firmly setting the drive in place!

Next, if you machine has an E-touch, screw it to the provided mounting hardware. Ensure a good fit by checking the orientation and making sure the extruder card fits snug on the rail. Securely attach the axis cables or rubber power drive belts. The belts slides into place on the backside of the assembly cart). This should be loose from the  if dismantling process. Firmly, attach axis cables, or rubber power drive belts. Undoubtedly, the belts slide into place (two slots cut out on the assembly cart) on the backside, if you remember during the teardown process. Next, loosen the X/Y axis drive belts using the red knobs, one on the front and the other on the right side. Now, tighten those knobs by turning them clockwise to apply tension to the belts and cart.

Extruder, Power On and Level
Seat Extruder

Seat Extruder

Power On

Power On

Hone & Level

Hone & Level

Replace drive connectors, which are key for stable linear and vertical movement. Reference tags will indicate connectors for controlling the x and y drive motors. Install the extruder ribbon by tucking it behind the two black plastic static tabs located just above the connector saddle and ribbon locks. 

Now the real test begins… the TPU Upgrade process continues to the next round! The series progresses, read more about TPU Post Processing or go back to the beginning with TPU Action. Finally, we will cover the initial settings, slicer, accessories and final settings in the next installment, so stick around. If you’re new to the series you can revisit upgrade parts on our affiliate shopping area and review pricing, upgraded hardware reviews, accessories and filament essential for this build. Alternatively, you can skip ahead, review article upgrade parts and accessories in the series opening.

TPU Upgrade Action

Full Install, System Inspection and Testing

TPU(Thermoplastic Polyurethane) Action – Sprite Extruder, Motherboard and Prints In Flight

TinkerCad Design - TPU Box with compartments

Max Neo Upgrades: The Parts, the pain and TPU Series

Covering TPU Action, starting with the removal, adding modifications, clean-up effort, settings for successful prints and final production.

Why Upgrade, Pieces and Parts

Let’s start with the why. Why upgrade your Max Neo board, extruder etc.? The easy answer is successful TPU prints. Prints of high quality, with low errors (blips and globs), working usable prints and again, TPU. How long did the upgrades take, i.e. duration, to upgrade the required parts for successful prints? In short, the installation took 30 – 60 minutes, with tweaks taking an additional 2 weeks. The time to achieve successful and consistent prints was 2.5 weeks. This includes time for troubleshooting, adding/removing parts, multiple test prints (which might slightly affect the duration), and finalizing print settings within the Creality Slicer.

Slicer and Pre-Print Preview
TinkerCad Design

Tinkercad Design

Slicer 4.3.8

Creality Slicer 4.3.8

Slicer Pre-Build

Slicer Pre-Build

If you have not checked out TINKERCAD yet, please do. This is where my drawings, ideas and digital designs come to life. It’s a web based application, specifically CAD (Computer Aided Design) software, used in the maker space and ideally in the global manufacturing industry. Tinkercad allows tinkers, students, and teachers to quickly learn, build and create in a simplified AutoCad environment. Tinkercad is like the younger sibling of AutoCad by AutoDesk. This  web-based application is part of the AutoDesk software family which includes Fusion360, AutoCad, TinkerCad, and more. The point here is simple: if you’re looking for fun, easy-to-use CAD program, give Tinkercad a try. It’s free to sign up and create 3D designs, circuits and code blocks. It’s a very cool, fun, and free way to learn something new for #makers.

Next, let’s discuss the cost. It may be helpful to share the components that were included in this upgrade session – TPU Update. The parts are as follows, or you can skip ahead to the upgrade process in the second post of this series. Below, we will cover the parts list, Creality upgrades, Duramic 3D Filament and Wyze Cameras, for live video action.

Upgrade Shopping List – Electronics, Parts and Accessories
Sprite Extruder

Sprite Extruder

Motherboard v4.2.7

Motherboard v4.2.7 (Required)

Bed Upgrade PEI

Bed Upgrade PEI

Digital Spool Rack

Digital Spool Rack

Wifi Box 2.0

Wifi Box 2.0

Creality TPU Filament

Creality TPU Filament

Duramic 3d TPU

Duramic 3d TPU Filament

Wyze Cam Pan

Wyze Cam Pan

Wyze Cam v3

Wyze Cam v3

Refurbed Max Neo

Refurbed Max Neo

The D&D Goods

Books, Starter Sets and More

So, Dungeons & Dragons… Want to Play?

D&D Essentials Kit

The D & D Goods, Gear and Imagination – Let’s Hop Into the World of RPG Gaming.

Let’s discuss the basics, of D&D Starter Kit. All you need is a starter kit, some dice and a friend or two. With a little imagination, creativity and people who can work with minimal direction, you can setup a basic game of D&D. 

Start a clan or cohort of player characters who are whisked off to battle, encountering orcs, goblins, and challenges unique to the world of RPGs (role playing games). However, there’s a catch if you’ve never played the game, read the books, or watched learn-to-play videos on platforms like YouTube, Twitch, Rumble or D&D content on ‘how to get started, game play and game strategy’. For simplicity’s sake, let’s leave the ‘how to’s to the to the experts. This article is more of a summary of our process, journey and learning how to play one of the original RPG games. Let’s outline our RPG journey.

Starter Sets, Dice and Imagination

Starting with the D&D Starter and/or Essentials Kit is extremely helpful. The Starter Set was particularly successful for us in terms of our campaign. By campaign, I mean a successful storyline that runs from start to finish, or sometimes just the time we started playing until the day ended. It could also refer to the order of play and our willingness to fail. I’ll discuss that more later.

For starters, the Essentials or Starter D&D kits are the way to go. We skipped the online version and just got the premade character sheets, six dice, a mini game or campaign (Lost Mine of Phandelver), D&D rulebook, and most importantly, a group of people willing to learn and not necessarily know how to play.

That’s it! So, what’s the catch? The punchline is that you can play regardless of experience. However, it’s extremely helpful to have someone in the group with ‘any’ level of D&D experience. We did not. So, the recommendation here is simple: read what you can, get the adventure started, start with what you know from other games you might have played, ‘discard’ what you don’t ,and have fun.

Kits, Books, Dice, Accessories and More

Starter Set – D&D Starter Set
Essentials Kit – D&D Essentials Kit
Core D&D Rulebooks Gift Set Object – D&D Core Rulebooks Set (Hardcover)
Starter Set – D&D Start Set
Dungeon Masters Guide – D&D Dungeon Masters Guide
D&D Art & Arcana – D&D Art & Arcana
Character Sheets – D&D Character Sheets
Spellbook Cards – D&D Spellbook Cards
Icewindale Book – D&D Icewindale Rime of the Frostmaiden
Fizban’s Book – D&D Fizban’s Treasury Of Dragons
Chessex D& Dice – Chessex D&D Dice

The DM (Dungeon Master) Role, Experience

The most important role in the game is that is the role of the Dungeon Master or DM for short. DM’s act as the campaign narrator, the judge, and with some experience, can create epic journeys filled with ice giants, mountain trolls, ancient wizards, clockwork stone samurai warriors, and dragons. After all, it is called Dungeons and Dragons. Before you face those dragons, a word of caution: experience can be beneficial. Replaying min-campaigns or campaigns you’ve already completed as a group can help improve situational awareness and guide you on how to behave as a player-character rathar than an NPC (non-player character).

Once again, the DM can assist campaign players in various ways: replaying scenarios on a small scale, developing new character activities, creating new situations. or realms. These tools are helpful in learning how to play, improving teamwork, enhancing character attributes and skills, and gaining a better understanding of the game quickly. 

Enjoy The Pitfalls, Work To Elevate Your Game Play

In our case, gaming, we navigate pitfalls, traps, and dragons to survive. The main goal is to have fun, while the Dungeon Master DM manages basic rules, functions, and gameplay. To play, you will need a DM, character sheets, a story  (campaign books are available for all levels of play), a rulebook, and some dice.

Quickly, let’s touch on the DM screen (DM screens contain quick tips, notes and situational actions to help the DM move the game along). It’s not game ending if you don’t have one and the DM relies on paper ‘screens’. What’s important is that most starter kits, depending on the edition,  include some version of a DM screen. The same goes for the DM guide and player rulebook.

This is a good starting point in the article where we added a few other D&D pieces to enhance game play. Ok, ok. I must admit, we picked up some second hand campaign books, additional character sheets (blank, with the skills needed to create a character from scratch), and a digital/web-based dice-rolling app. This is handy when space is limited. Whether new or used, refurbished or the latest edition, we chose to add something new at longer intervals.

Additional Accessories

Introducing the Core Rulebooks Set with Original Cover Art, including the DM Screen, DM Guide, Monster Manual and Player’s Handbook. We have chosen to maintain a longer interval between game additions, sticking to the basics. Adding new elements such as pieces, books, or parts would disrupt the flow of the game. It took several months to full appreicate the benefits of running a campaign with Monster Cards and maps (we projected our campaign maps on the TV). This proved to be a handy way to visually understand the campaign and create the illusion of a cave or dungeon, especially for a less skilled group of players.

RPG’s – Role Playing Games

Let’s take a moment to define RPG play. The concept is quite simple; players roll dice, make moves to observe, discover, or take action each round of play. 

The same goes for the characters, many of whom are monsters that take a a turn by rolling dice, adding a layer of complexity to the game. All of us were new to the game, yet, we had a Dungeon Master, some players, character sheets, dice and a pre-made story. Kudos to us early on in the journey, as we had no idea what we were getting into. We completely ignoring time elements, rules, items characters ‘carry with them’, magic, or player strengths/weaknesses, durability and XP.

We immersed ourselves in the story, made strategic moves, faced the best D&D Goods and challenges presented by the DM’s monsters, and then moved on to the next. adventure. At its core, that’s the essence of the game. While note groundbreaking, we soon realized that these sessions served as valuable training excesizes that helped our team establish out play style for future campaigns. Let’s emphasize the enjoyment of RPGs, revisiting campaigns can be exciting. The main reason being the game’s incredible flexibility, allowing for a different experience each time it is played.  With different DMs, varying character strengths, and evolving situations, the player-characters  grow and the gameplay experience evolves. Lastly,  we probably should have stuck with our premade characters a bit longer. For those who have never  played, there is no right or wrong way to approach the game. The key is to make the most of what you have, whether using premade characters or creating your own.

D&D Goods, Successes, DM’s and Game Play

Now, the key to our success was the premade character sheets included in the kits. We had no idea how to play, a DM… and some sheets. Characters levels, arcane, dexterity, what? Skipping this part, is not critical to the story, the point is, the more you play, the rules and gameplay evolve. Assuming the group can accept the lack of knowledge and that there is no inherent game expert to guide the game; then it sounds like you’ve got a game!

Hours, days, and even weeks have passed, replaying the essentials. This is where the DM (mentioned above, whose experience is key) can help elevate game play. Adding the D&D core books (D&D Goods) i.e. the DM’s Guide, Monster Manual and Player’s Handbook. to the mix was essential . The Essential Kit and/or Starter Kit can be replayed as much or as little as you desire. Today, we revisit the journey from time to time. The game offers a level of flexibility, rules can come and go, or maybe a better way to describe the journey, leave it up to the Dungeon Master!

Respect for the DM, get the D&D goods. Books and bulk dice purchases came sometime later as we added new players. Most players resorted to the digital dice apps for player moves and actions where applicable. We won’t go into detail, keeping this high level. Introducing new elements to the game/campaign, week by week ( generally, months at a time). Stick with it, you’ll figure it out!

Expand, Purchase Core D&D Goods, Dice Sets and More

Finally, we worked to refine our game play, by adjusting the D&D goods and complexity as needed. The amount of changes made often depends on the team’s available playtime. It can be a gradual process, but having an intuitive and creative DM is crucial, so a big thanks to our DM! Dm’s have the ability to breathe life into the storyline, introducing unique challenges such as crisis situations, periods of difficulty, high-pressure scenarios, troubled times and moments of campaign glory! There is never a ‘wrong direction’ in the game – the more you learn, the more opportunities you have to create a new character or try a different storyline.

The direction and strategy can only ‘grow’ from today-to-tomorrow. Any suggestions? Keep it simple, light and refreshing. Focus on building character  strengths, avoiding complexities, and gaining strength and XP (experience points) for warriors. Arcane abilities for Mages, stealth for thieves. Additionally, cohort successes can benefit from various play styles, complementing team play or player-character types. Be mindful of limitations, and work to mitigate character weaknesses. Lastly, rely on your D&D clan your clan and a little imagination will get you through the tough times.

Finally, Ok, you want to play? Get yourself some D&D goods, game books, accessories and more (tables, cups, merch).

Fix 3D Prints and Plastics

Be Creative Without the Hassle

Quick Fix With Glue(Super) and Baking Soda

Active Fix

Strong Adhesives, Baking Soda and Spray Activator/Hardener Light

Fix plastics, wood lures, wood carvings and more. Fix 3d Prints and Plastics better than traditional fillers or bonding agents.

Adhesives, Clean Up/Deburring
Starbond Kit – Starbond Kit – Glue & Activator Starbond – Super Fast Thin Glue JB Weld – J-B Weld Bonder (2) Pack AFA Tooling – AFA Tooling Deburring Tools
Dremel Tool – Dremel High Performance Rotary Tool Kit
In A Tight Spot, Choose Super Adhesive and Baking Soda

Need a quick fix, while out fishing in the field? Or did a new 3D print break during the clean up process? What should you do now? For a quick fix, simply grab some extra strength glue, our choice, Starbond, Starbond activator, baking soda and start the filling process. This method works on wood, plastics, and more. By using baking soda as the ‘filler’ and the super adhesive as the bonding agent, you’ll have a quick fix in no time. 

If you need to clean up your 3D Printables, clean up or deburr plastics and filler using super adhesives and baking soda, deburring tools are a must. When producing items from plastics or resin compounds such as wood, metals and plastics, the production process isn’t perfect, leaving you with work post production. Tasks like, trimming for metal stamping or removing travel or supports in the 3D printing process, require specific tools. We  recommend AFA Deburring Tools for hand scraping and clean up, as well as the Dremel Rotary Tool for tile, clay, woods and metals. These tools are handy to have around the shop for various tasks.

Finally, for those tough jobs, or bonds, try JB Weld (J-B Weld Amazon Store). There are many applications for JB weld. Whether it’s loose or broken tiles, outdoor furniture, or any other project, JB Weld Epoxy and adhesives will create a strong and lasting bond using chemical bonding resins.

For a comprehensive list of all products mentioned above, please refer to our affiliate shopping list for ideas, product information, and more. Here are some products you may want to consider! Please note that this is just one method of fixing plastics; it was a test to demonstrate the effectiveness of the adhesive and baking soda powder.

M1 Touchbar

Glue And All

Teardown and Rebuild M1 Touchbar

M1 Preview

M1 Update – Touch bar

Take your time! I can’t stress this enough. This process of building this feature article, the M1 Touchbar, will require time, patience and a steady hand. It is important to take your time and proceed with caution. The article includes over 50 steps, so proper case is essential. If needed, consider seeing a professional help. There are easier alternatives available, but they may be more expensive.

For example, you could purchase the correct make/model upper case where the touch bar does not need to be removed and replaced.  However, finding the right parts may not be as simple as it seems, especially for a model that is just coming out of warranty. This challenge is common when repairing newer or cutting-edge electronics. In some cases, it may be easier to purchase a new computer, second-hand computer and replace only the parts from the existing machine.

Keep Your Work Area Clean, Clean As You Go

We clean up as we go, there were glass fragments before, during and after this process. Handle with caution and care. Glass and debris (dirt, hair, fuzz etc.) must be cleaned up as you go. The goal is to leave it better than the you found it! Ditto on Teardown. The same goes for the battery, battery cable, main screw, hinges, LCD cables, display, display hinge covers, cables (springs), antenna cables and assembly, LCD, remove antennae, main hinge screws, and remove LCD. First, perform an LCD check to ensure the new LCD works.

Disassemble Upper Cables
Board Cables

Board Cable(s)

Unplug Cable

Disconnect Board Cable(s)

Unplug Cable

Unplug Connectors

Unplug Cable

Disconnect all Cable(s)

Board Cable

Board Cable

Starting here with the upper disassembled, we have the main logic board, power brackets, cable brackets. We need to disconnect the trackpad, speakers, logic board flex screws and cables. This is where we can begin the touch bar assembly replacement. Everything is bundled up, with covers, varying screws, and electronics tape. It is important to have your replacement ready once you have removed the main board, speakers, and trackpad. This is where things get tricky!

Continue Disassembly & Board
LCD Removed

LCD Removed

Board Screws

Board Screw(s)

Continue Disassembly

Continue Disassembly

Board Screw

Motherboard Screw(s)

Board Cables

Board Cables

Board Screw

Additional Screw(s)

Board Screw

Clean Motherboard Space

Brush Debris

Brush Debris

Continue Vacuum Debris

Vacuum Debris

It’s handy to have your tool kit out. If not, give Amazon a quick call or pull up iFixit and scroll. You’re going to need adhesive remover, gloves, and glasses you know, the essentials when working with glass, and chemicals on small electronics.

We will start with the flat pry bar on the front (assuming all touch bar parts have been dismantled or ‘torn down’). We will slowly pry and spray our adhesive remover down behind the touch bar glass and the metal upper. It’s more fun if you have more adhesive remover than what we had during the refurb process. Not much left after the mobile device teardowns a few months back.

Touchbar
Touch Assembly

Touch Assembly

Touch Cable

Touch Cable(s)

Touch Cable

Touchbar Cable(s)

Unfold Flex Cable

Unfold Flex Cable(s)

Glue Removal

Glue Remova

Glue Release

Glue Release

Touch Removed<

Touch Removed

ReAttach Touch Cables

Attach Touch Cable(s)

Unfold Flex Cable

Unfold Flex Cable(s)

Ok, so first we remove the glue, glass, and finally the touch bar on the front by accessing it through the upper back. Then, it’s a simple process of replacing the touch bar. We need to be careful to remove the backing that will adhere the M1 Touchbar to the upper case, flex cable in hand through the upper or touch bar bracket and reassemble the touch bar cables and housing.

Throughout the rebuild process, we kept the screen protector film on to protect the screen. Below, you can find a number of images documenting each step of the process. Proceed with caution!

Touchbar Verification
Remove Cover

Remove Cover

Remove Cover

Cover Removed

Power On

Power On

Touch Bar Test

Touch bar Test

Log in

Log In

Unfold Flex Cable

OS Testing

Wrapping up, the M1 Touchbar has been installed, and all parts have been reassembled. Now let’s cover the conclusion. Once the machine is back together, a quick test is needed. We run the machine services mode, working with the drive, and checking what’s on it.

We wipe the main drive, rename it, rebuild it and reinstall it. Some quick terminal snippets and a reboot later, the process is complete. Once reinstalled, we remove any all all software (bloat) that we can, and we are off to the races. This laptop will be used at some point to run ham radio software, so I am hoping to install Linux on the main drive and use it as I have done with my previous machines. Well, that concludes the refurbish process/effort. If you have any questions, feel free to send me an email, Cheers

Series Complete, Review Previous Posts

Lastly, good luck with your own Self Service Repair, and the same goes for the Parts catalog -https://selfservicerepair.com/en-US/home.  The build continues on the M1, so be sure to check out the subsequent articles (5 in total)  M1 Refurb, Visual Inspection and TeardownM1 Touchbar, and Screen & Keys. Enjoy!  A friendly reminder,  It’s vital in my opinion to use OEM parts. IMO (in my opinion), if you can’t, consider second -hand options via Amazon or eBay. Additionally, the parts list is very helpful for those familiar with the process. If you’re not, don’t hesitate to reach out if you’re in a pinch. I’m happy to help or help guide you to the right support method or service.

M1 Screen & Keys

Teardown And Rebuild

M1 Teardown – Screen & Keys

M1 Screen and Keys

M1 Arrow Key, LCD

LCD and keys, can be tedious, be careful and be aware of the process; ‘teardown’ process.

Visual Inspection, Keys

Starting with the easiest part of the refurbishment process – what is the easiest part of the build? The keys. Keys, Screen/LCD and then the touch bar. Please note, the refurbishment process required two teardowns, so to speak. First, let’s verify the working parts and inspect the touch bar on it’s own. The process, you could say, is a one-step job. However, I did this job in two parts for the sake of my own sanity.

The key here, is this: I know that if I could get the screen working, we would be in good shape. Cost aside, I was trying to avoid purchasing the M1 upper case which holds all parts associated with the computer. So, in other words, it’s a no-brainer,  keys on the keyboard, LCD screen, then touch bar.

Teardown
Screws and Bottom Case

Screws and Bottom Case

Apply Suction

Apply Suction

Visual Inspection

Visual Inspection

Battery Cable

Battery Cable

Remove Cable

Remove Cable

Board Screw

Board Screw

A Closer Look

A Closer Look

Screw Removed

Screw Removed

Hinge Covers

Hinge Covers

Cover Screws

Cover Screws

Left Main Hinge

Left Main Hinge

Right Main Hinge

Right Main Hinge

Internal Repair, Replace LCD

Start the teardown bell! We’ve completed our inspection and are beginning with the easiest of the three R/R (remove and replace) parts in this teardown. Keys can sometimes be tricky, so if you are familiar with them, please refer to the video below. If keys are a confusing concept to you, just focus on the left arrow key. There are several online resources available for reference, with Snazzy providing a helpful video walkthrough of the process. We breeze through the key change with ease.

For more detailed information, you can also  check out Snazzy Labs, quick video on how to replace keys. It’s important to note – that there may be some differences between models, especially the M1. That’s why the video is so helpful! The key takeaway is that quick snap keys convenient but can tricky if you are not familiar with how scissor clips work. I recommend purchasing new keys (up, down, left and right) – make sure to get the ‘left arrow’ key) for a simple slide an click installation process. It’s as easy as pie.

Moving On To The Display

So, the cracked screen… We used a clamp tool and suction cups to get under the bottom case. A recommendation: iFixit has a variety of tools and parts for fixing things. We’ll talk more about them later, but we have bought a few items for them. You will also need adhesive remover, can you guess where we got ours? This is not a paid advertisement, but they have some great tools if you don’t have anything in your electric/technical toolbox.

We start by removing the bottom case when replacing the screen. Beginning with the batter cable for the M1 Screen &amp; Key’s fix, it’s important to be carful as cables and parts are delicate and can easily break. So, remove the cable cover, battery cable, and screws. The most nerve-wracking part is dealing with the different sizes of screws, types of drivers, and prying tools required for the job (TORX, pryer(s), spudgers, tweezers etc). Once the battery cables and screws are removed, we can unscrew the hinge covers and move onto the antennas. It can be challenging to see the screws on the antennas, so good luck!

Teardown Upper, Goal LCD Removal
Locate Antennae Bay

Locate Antennae Bay

Remove Cables

Remove Cable(s)

Remove Cables

Remove Cable(s)

Antennae Screw(s)

Antennae Screw(s)

Antennae Screw(s)

Remove Screw(s)

Antennae Screw(s)

Antennae Screw(s)

LCD Removal and Replace

The antenna will need additional cables, screws and bars leading down to the antenna and LCD springs. After installing those items, we will once again remove the antenna wire cover and detach the wires. It is important to exercise caution and be mindful of leaving the piece in better condition than when we found it. When removing covers, do so gently to keep glued area clean and free of debris (we had to address some glass bits). 

Teardown Continues With the Antennae and Cables
Prep Antennae

Prep Antennae

Antennae Screws

Antennae Screw(s)

Antennae Cables

Remove Cable Connectors

Antennae Cables

Antennae Cable(s) Removed

Hinge(s)

Hinge(s)

Antennae Cleared

Antennae Cleared

Once, the antenna bar is clear, the LCD hinge screws will need to be removed, along with the springs and mounting hardware. Voila, the LCD has been detached.

Antennae, Hinges and Test LCD
Remove Display

Remove Display

LCD Hinges

LCD Hinges

Reattach LCD

Reattach LCD

M1 Screen & Keys Wrap Up

This concludes the M1 Screen & Keys section of the refurbishment process. As mentioned earlier, we will now proceed to the touch bar. We went back, replaced all screws and cables to confirm that the LCD swap and key are working as expected, and we found that the touch bar was not working. We verified all parts (sans the touch bar) continued with wiping and cleaning in the following post. If you missed the first three articles, you can find those here: 1. Self Repair, 2. Refurb, and 3. Visual Inspection, Teardown. Cheers.

M1 Visual Inspection & Teardown

Work To Identify Norms, Baseline Tests

M1 Inspection – Screen, Touch bar & Keys

M1 Screen, Touch bar and Keys

M1 Inspection Report

Time will be relevant here, take your time, clean up as you go; we will be replacing several items, the screen, touch bar and keys on the M1 MBP.

Inspection, Condition

First, let’s start with the inspection. Let’s call it the M1 Visual Inspection & Teardown. Shall we begin? We will start with the physical inspection, then move into the software inspection, computational tests and gather the relevant information to start the refurbishment. So, what is the physical damage? Does this damage impact the computers ability to function or compute? In turn, we want to know where the damage is and how it might impact the machine’s performance, computing power, UI (User Interface) etc…

Visual Hardware Inspection
Top Case

Top Case

Case Corners

Left Bottom Case Corner

Case Corners

Corner Right

Case Corners

Side Case Blemishing

Screen Issues

Screen Issues

Touch Issues

Touch Issues

Keys

Keys

Keys & Touch

Keys & Touch

Sand, Glass Debris

Sand, Glass Debris

Secondly, we can observe screen issues, such as LCD problems where the screen is affected by broken glass or screen distortion. Upon close examination, scratches and broken/cracked glass can be seen in the black sublayer of the LCD screen. At the bottom of the display, near the hinge, and just about the touch bar. There may have been some debris or object inside this screen area when the computer was closed by the user. At least, that is my hunch.

Now, as for the case, the metal case appears worn but not excessively so. All corners have some damage, scratches, etc., but overall it seems okay (the case did it’s job). There is nothing that raises a red flag indicating damage that could cause internal or computing issues.

Interfaces: LCD, Trackpad and Keyboard

Thirdly, in the next step of the M1 Visual Inspection & Teardown article, let’s inspect the keyboard. The directional arrow is missing and the touch bar is no longer illuminating… I wonder if the key came off and damaged the screen some how? Not likely, but something appears to have been closed in the laptop where the touch bar and screen would meet upon closing the laptop. Another takeaway is that the machine may need an overhaul, or a new upper (upper case, which can be extremely expensive as it will include all parts ).

Finally, parting out, or fixing each piece, individually is not recommended. Now a disclaimer – this is my own machine. Typically ,items under warranty will be processed through Apple via Apple Care. Utilize Apple Care or Apple+ where you can, assuming you’ve purchased the warranty/insurance. If not, things can get expensive. There are resources out there as you can imagine. Hopefully posts like this and those following help to provide some guidance in dire straits.

Ok, now that we got that out, let’s get to the first fix; this left arrow key and LCD screen. Quickly, see other articles linked to this story: Self Repair, Refurb, Screen & Keys and Touchbar

M1 Refurb

Refurb Update – Keys, Touchbar and Screen – Images being prepped

M1 Screen and Keys

M1 Mid 2020 Refurb process – Keys, Touchbar and Screen

Not recommended, but if you’re in a pinch, there is a way to continue with the M1 Refurb without purchasing a new M1 upper and/or M1 full assembly. A reminder, I should mention the Apple Self Repair help and  Parts/Catalog. All links are handy to have in a pinch.

Blocker and Resolution

An all in one post was supposed to be the next article in this series.  However, it will be split into two separated articles as continuation of the M1 Refurb process. One will focus on the screen and keys, while the other will cover the touch bar repair. Since the touch bar repair is quite invasive, it makes more sense to  address the screen and keys separately and then tackle the touch bar in another post. The will result in a lengthy post, as you can imagine.

Where are the future posts, today? Funny you asked, as I’ve got most, if not all 25 plus images ‘in-process’ – size, color, lighting etc. For all intents and purposes, the story line is complete. The pre-post work is also complete at this point. I think there were around 50 steps to remove, replace, and install the touch bar, so we will make it as streamlined as we can. More to come, check back in a few days, as we should have the post ready to go.

Jump Ahead

Okay, let’s fast forward, now that the series has come to it’s conclusion. With that we got that out of the way, you can continue the journey from start to finish here with some helpful links: 1. Self Repair, 2. Visual Inspection & Teardown, 3. Screen & Keys and 4. Touchbar.

M1 Self Service Repair

Repair, and Fix Tech

M1 Self Service Repair – Apple Documentation

Apple Self Services Help

M1 Repair – Self Repair Documentation, Websites etc

Those of you who are not certified, no worries.  We use the links below to fix various Apple products, iPhones, iPads, MBP’s (Macbook Pro’s) and this M1 Self Service Repair as noted. No longer certified? It’s a breeze!  Never certified, there are challenges, but this article will help. Two very important links, Self Service Repair  https://support.apple.com/self-service-repair and Parts https://selfservicerepair.com/en-US/home. So, this article will focus more on the later, when your warranty has expired. Remember, there are options, tried and true, Apple’s Self Service Repair options.

Apple Self Service Repair Options

First, keep in mind, there are always options. We’ve got warranty, approved services providers, and self repair options. Second hand as well, don’t forgot others have gone through similar experiences; a loss of a drive, broken/cracked screen and worse, failed motherboard.

Bare in mind there are options available, specific for the M1 build, or article title, M1 Self Service Repair, even when Apple Care+ warranty has expired. Learn to fix Apple tech yourself. Be sure to do your research,  of course. Perhaps, you might want to start here… I’ll let Apple explain the ‘other repair options’ independent repair providers and self service repair. Avenues become limited as the warranty expires or those who can perform the fix on the go.

Next, let’s assume our options are limited for the M1 MBP… the Apple Self Service Repair (resource website) will help with your repair; this assumes you know what you’re doing. Parts can be purchased as well, … also, there is chat support available, where it makes sense. Do your due diligence. Can’t stress this enough, especially those who are just getting into electronics as a hobby, or starting those who can fix friends and family electronics.

Series Continues

Lastly, good luck with your own Self Service Repair, same for the Parts catalog.  The build continues on the M1, check out the subsequent articles (5 in total) M1 Refurb, Visual Inspection and TeardownM1 Touch bar, and Screen & Keys. Enjoy! Friendly reminder,  It’s vital to use OEM parts IMO (in my opinion), if you can, second hand via Amazon or eBay. Moreover, the parts list is very helpful for those familiar with the process. If not, don’t be afraid to reach out if you’re in a pinch. Happy to help or help guide you to the right support method/service.

Descale

Proper Maintenance And Care

Descale Modern Coffee Machines

Let's Descale

Descale with Apple Cider Vinegar

White vinegar or apple cider vinegar works, preferably organic, will work ofr this task. A quick tip: use vinegar to descale coffee machines. The objective is to clean and descale the pipes and water reservoir of a modern coffee machine. For machines, including camp pots and classic coffee pots, vinegar will suffice. For manual types, a mixture of vinegar and baking soda can be helpful. If there are stubborn coffee stains that are difficult to remove, a little baking soda can provide extra scrubbing power.

Typical Coffee Machines Needing descaling

Below, we have two machines, a. Keurig brand Coffee Machine and b. Breville brand Nespresso machine. We hve used both coffee machines and continue to clean them as needed, regularly and thoroughly. Simple monthly cleanings will go a long way.

Keurig Type Machines
Water Reservoir

Water Reservoir

Interface

Interface

Pod Area

Pod Area

Press to Clean

Press To Clean

Post Clean

Post Clean

To clean your Keurig (generic) machine, depending on the model you own, pour a mixture of vinegar and water into the reservoir. Choose a cup size and place the cup below the spout, then start the machine. Let the water and vinegar solution run through the machine until it’s all gone. For the next cycles, use only water in the reservoir. I usually run three full cycles: 1. Water with vinegar, 2. H2), and 3. More water. The aim is to ensure that all the vinegar is completely flushed out of the machine, including the small reservoir inside.

Remember, to run the machine as many times as necessary to clear out the vinegar. A small amount of apple cider vinegar shouldn’t cause any issues, assuming no allergies. We’re talking about trace amounts here. Just a disclaimer: I’m not a health professional, nor ram I representing apple cider vinegar or vinegar in any way that suggests health benefits. The vinegar is simply the cleaning agent, replacing store bought chemicals).

Nespresso Type Machines
Visual Inspection

Visual Inspection

Pod Area

Pod Area

Vinegar & Water

Vinegar & Water

Press and hold

Press And Hold

Ready to brew

Ready to Brew

Fresh Espresso

Fresh Espresso

Same process for the Breville (generic) Nespresso machine, caveat, holding the two ‘size’ buttons on the top of the machine..This will turn on the machine and it will run until the water reservoir is empty. I’ve found it easier to just unplug the machine, once it has finished running. Not saying that his is the correct way, just the way I clean the machine.

Ok, moving on, rinse and repeat, the same cycle as mentioned above – 1. water with vinegar, 2. water, 3. water. Run 2 or 3 cycles and your machine should be good to go. If the descale indicator light is on, you may need to run a fourth or fifth cycle. It’s time to clean if the light has been triggered. The cleaning schedule is monthly, sometimes every two months depending on usage. If we use either machine less frequently, it’s important to run the vinegar solution more often to maintain tubes, bungs, diaphragms and fluid mechanical components.

Let’s leave it at that. Some machines will require a K-cup to remain in the machine in order for it to run. You can just use a ‘spent’ cup, no harm in that. I typically make a cup to drink while I clean the machines, so I have a fresh cup if needed. Obviously, this quick tip – descale – is not necessary if you have one of the new machines, a K-cup with a QR code. The level of frustration on the first series, required a K-cup with the stamp.

Side Bar – Coffee Pots, Camp Pots and Manual Brewers

A simple way to keep these vessels clean is by using water, vinegar and baking soda. The reaction between the vinegar and soda is quite fun. I remember making a volcano-like structure in elementary school using the same two chemicals. To clean, grab a sponge or paper rag, place the soda at the bottom, then add vinegar and water. You can pre scrub the soda around the inside of the camp pot for example. Pour in the water/vinegar mixture (hot water where applicable) and scrub the mixture until the soda powder is fully incorporated into the liquid. This process typically only takes a minute. Scrubbing until it’s incorporated acts like the silica grit inside toothpaste, which helps scrub the stained sides, tops, or handles. 

If you have a camp coffee pot or percolator, follow similar cycles using vinegar and baking soda to remove the coffee stains, burnt coffee, coffee grind oil/debris and residue. Using vinegar as a quick tip – to descale your coffee pots and machines is key. The baking soda acts as a scrubbing  booster  while the vinegar’s acid breaks down those hard-to-clean coffee spots. The same method can be used on pots and pans, but I’ll save that for another post. Holiday time seems to be an appropriate time and place.

Like the quick fix format? Check out other quick fix content here such as this disposal problems fix. Like the learn to descale your coffee equipment – pots and machines, fix a toilet float, clean and fixpool filter housing and filter problem or try a cell phone charging hack… Check them out!