Search
Close this search box.
Sallee Technology Logo

Part 5

Rebuild(s), Sonic Pad Adjustments, Assembly, Part 5

Part 5 Inputs/Outputs

Labwork – Upgrade Part 5

Finally, a moment to enjoy, a moment to enjoy success, what we’ve all been waiting for… a full print – Ender 3 Max Neo, Sonic Pad, Creality TPU. Full print, sans a dreaded motherboard upgrade.

No motherboard upgrade needed at this time! Just need some more time to print and tweak; print and tweak. Success! A fresh print, an end-to-end cube test print… just look at the ironing, ‘it’s alive, it’s alive’. Perhaps some perspective, a small win, yes but it’s a win. The config/console looks correct, no supruses, I’m looking into a few more tweaks in the end. Let’s point out a few things, I wanted to get an update up on the site specifcally celebrating the print test win. After a very early start this morning (the pictures are included below) we’ve got the Ender 3 Max Neo kicking out TPU test prints with minimum blips/blurps, zits, stringing etc. All good things. Key takeaway, delta is extrusion settings… this controls the direct drive pressure on the filament, can be found -> advanced settings -> extrusion settings. Reminder, we are using the Creality Sonic Pad interface, those of you using the onboard interface, you’ll need to look at something called – steps or look to control the stepper. Which in laymans terms is the ‘pressure in steps’ to again push filament throught he extruder.

Two, while we highlight the exutrusion win, matching other minor tweaks such as heat at the tip, bed for adhesion, speed etc. in the effort to match the Sprite Extrusion settings. A few print temps do work, and we wil work through those 220 – 240 C, depending on filament type – Duramic or Creality TPU. A few other hightlights, we did increase the flow an additional 25%, bringing the flow rate to 125%, and knocked down the speed 25%, to ~75%. So -> 220C – 240C Nozzle – 75C Bed – 75% Speed – 125% Flow Rate – Sprite Extrusion Settings Enabled.

At the moment, a few more tweaks are being applied to movement settings, the Z height seems to need a few n/mm’s here and there, no idea why. Might be start layers vs those layers that follow the starting layers. 3d printers allow controls to be manipulated over three phases of print – start, middle and end.

One other item to note, I failed to mention this in my previous post, Part 4… bed adhesion remains an issue, could be the dark horse of issues in the mix, bed adhesion quick fix… For now, alcohol and paper towels to keep that adhesion plate clear and clean! Really get after it, scrub away any and all oil residue, filament, blips, dust, stringing, dog hair (Zeus), all the left-behind filament and whatever else might collect on the build plate in an average office environment. I don’t recall that it made a difference to keep the plate clean, cleaning the bed per say, but we’ve tried a few things – a clean bed, a taped bed (Blue Painters Tape), sprayed adhesive bed, all in the name of finding an alternative solution for prints shifting this way and that on the bed surface plate. We will post a few of build plate tests as well, working toward spray adhesives next. Might that be the answer?

A few tweaks of the Hex (Allen) keys, reset the rail wheels and we’ve got gold! In hindsight, not sure the build plate needed a scrub down in between PLA prints. I’ll have you notice in the picture, if you can, the Creality Sonic Pad is up and running as intended. Honestly, not sure I would have stuck with the generic screen that comes with the machine. Wifi, Cloud Printing/Slicing, direct printing and settings all main reasons to stick with the Sonic Pad. One item to note, on the flip-side, we have yet to get the Wifi Box 2.0 to work in the upgraded sandbox. More over, for now atleast, we will skip the Wifi Box 2.0 and keep that item aside until we can gain some clarity on the optimal print settings and adhesion consistency. Positivity, all within target, as we move to spin up a few larger format prints, including a few Tinkercad projects for a true test. Also of note, we moved the printer off the ‘bench’, the work ‘bench’/tabletop doesn’t provide the needed stability, ideally the shaking, vibration and the back-and-forth motions of the printer assembly.

All in all, it’s a win today, for the week/weeks we’ve had the printer on the bench. Upswing, new parts, new break-fix settings, slicing settings and a new place-setting for the 3d printer to live and work. For those of you who are interested in the what’s to come (next prints), I’ve got a backlog of TPU Max Neo parts – specifically a TPU threader, some technology ‘covers’, and one-off locking mechanism for a cooler/fish well, more on that later.

Part 5 Inputs/Outputs Part 5 Inputs/Outputs Part 5 Inputs/Outputs Part 5 Inputs/Outputs Part 5 Inputs/Outputs Part 5 Inputs/Outputs Part 5 Inputs/Outputs Part 5 Inputs/Outputs

Rebuild Part 4

Miss-Prints, eSteps/Stepper, Filaments and More Rebuild, 4

Part 4 Internals

Labwork – Rebuild Part 4

Fine tuning, break-fix, and reprints. Yes, break-fix steps continue, fine tuning/recalibration, config adjustments, steppers, test prints and more. Largely, considered a failure so far…

Failures, not to worry! We will get this fixed, upgrades and all. A couple cycles now, including – what I will call the ‘teardown-and-rebuild’ cycle – removal of most external upgrades such as the Creality Sonic Pad, Wifi Box 2.0, direct drive extruder, tubes and hot end… the key is to isolate issues with teardown and rebuild cycle, building up with neutral or known issues. Please note, the Sonic Pad interface, under the ‘advanced settings’, extrusion settings… the default extrusion type must be changed/modified to include the ‘sprite extruder’, this accounts for the upgrades and the most significant step forward.

Please note, there are four default settings – default, sprite, MK8 and manual or custom… although we quickly tested each extrusion type, here, we focused in on the sprite extruder settings. Also of note, we’ve not had a clean TPU print. The TPU prints have been bad to say the least, as you will see in the test photos, bad to worse in some cases. In addition to miss prints, under-printing has been a major factor (due to extrusion steps as mentioned above, check the Sonic Pad Settings -> Advanced Settings -> Custom Extrusion Settings – Spite Extrusion vs Onboard Interface ramping up eSteps ~ 500mm). Before we move on, we’ve had globules (just large drops of melted TPU, simiular in shape/size as the end of a q-tip) miss-prints, gummed up nozzles and so on.

Beyond this point, I’ve looked at a board swap, which will also be something to consider until the print issues can be ironed out. Yes, that would be mean an effort in futility, meaning a full swap which would be considered moot.. for those that might not understand, this would leave only the base hardware/structure unchanged, changing out all components; which is not the goal. If a required motherboard change is confirmed- Creality motherboard v 4.2.7 specifically, a new printer specifically used for TPU might be the answer. Not ideal, but necessary. Below, you will find new images have been posted, thought it would help to highlight the removal of the fans, changing out heating element and sensor and Sonic Pad configs. Furthermore, I feel we are close to a successful print. Before I forget, the PLA prints run with little error, printing test cubes with minor blips or over printing… Beware, slicer/printer controllers do vary, Utlimaker Cura, Creality Slicers etc have varing results, some no result at all as the print is shown outside the consoles ‘known print’ area. More on that later, we can share a few posts on slicer sucesses (failures in our case).

Next, let’s cover some of the activities taking place during the rebuild:

  • Hot End
  • Assembly
  • Backplate
  • Sprite Extruder
  • Filament Tube
  • Filaments
  • Bed level, Adhesion Spray Glue and Blue Tape
  • Software – firmware and slicers (Creality Cloud, Creality Slicer, Ultimaker Cura)
  • Wifi Box, MicroSD Cards, Sonic Pad, Onboard Interface
  • OS – MacOS/Linux
  • Lot’s of cleaning, grab yourself a brass brush
  • E-stepper
  • Nozzles
  • Temperatures – hot end, bed
  • Homing Issues
  • Extrusion Settings
  • Homing Issues

So, what’s next you ask? Nozzles, needles, upgraded plate screws, leveling, Capricorn tube, Spider 2.0/3.0 Pro hot end… motherboard? We will have a full swap on our hands shortly! Ugh. Listen, it might sound like a lot of work, it is… but that is part of 3d printing, don’t let that bog you down. The challenge, the challenge or build problem ‘is what I gravitate to’ the most, a good problem, finding solutions, and working around said challenges… testing, and failing. In this case, may be to many times. I’ll sure video at some point, but for now, pictures and commentary will have to do the job for now.

Moving on, I mentioned a few items on the ‘pending’ list, nozzles, I think something is going awry with the heating element, thermistor and nozzle – space issue, wrong temperature etc. Globules of filament collect on the heating element, nozzle and many times fail to find the build surface. E-Stepper will help with this, I’ve read 424.9 is the ideal. However for our build, it has yet to be determined as the hot-end and thermistor might be the culprit. We need to eliminate those as build factors first, more to come on that front. Next, we need to have a few needles around to keep the direct-drive and assembly filament path clear, the collection of burnt filament doesn’t help the situation. So that to will be addressed this week.

Motherboard upgrades, we’ll skip the motherboard update for now, as that would as I mentioned be a full swap with a new sprite/extruder assembly to bypass the extruder and sprtie upgrade purchased at the start of this build. If the printer would require a motherboard update – 4.2.7 specifically, again, not the happy path per say. We will stick to items above, new screws, metal tension knobs, cushions, tubing and hot end are next. Ideally, the win will come from a level and consistent bed/build plate temperature, a clean adhesion plate, consistent hot end temperatures to reduce ‘leaking’ and hot end ‘heat creep’ and a quality filament… hardware problems might recede, or at least that is the intention. Now, assuming the hardware and upgrade components work, software will be the final challenge… TPU seems to be more about testing and failing tests, more so than first expected. I was able to print a clean print with a filament swap using the old Bowden drive and PLA settings. This was a full step back, to make sure the base product still prints as expected. Honestly, the speed-to-market issue comes into play here (this assumes you are looking to print commerically or in some professional fashion), as we are down both the ability to print PLA, cost per print and TPU. We will get the problem solved here shortly, more to come.

Part of this process is just keeping a positive outlook, even when balls of filament build up on the hot end and nozzle for the ~40th test. I know we are close per say, but, as we eliminate or mitigate more pieces and parts, the solution is there. Honestly, I might just need a few more mins to find the right combination of parts and software. Frankly speaking, TPU has been a bit of a bear. TPU is not all that hard on newer machines, but we need to find a solution for the Ender platform… on the cheaper end, wallet friendly for some (or may be not) when comparing to other very expensive printers which provide an out-of-the-box solution for many types of fulfillment needs. I will say this, for those looking for an easy, out of the box 3d printer (crickets, crickets), time/budget will be major factors, if not the defining factor; make or break.

More in part 5…

Part 4 Internals Part 4 Internals Part 4 Internals Part 4 Internals Part 4 Internals Part 4 Internals Part 4 Internals Part 4 Internals Part 4 Internals Part 4 Internals Part 4 Internals Part 4 Internals Part 4 Internals

Rebuild, Continues 3

Final Assembly, Boot, Config and Print

Ender - Middle

Labwork – Rebuild Part 3

Hit a bit of snag, working through those challenges now. For the time being, see above/below for part 3 updates… We cover rebuild – x/y axis bands, plate, direct drive snafus, boot/reboot, reinstall printer drivers, slicers, nozzle change, a bit of troubleshooting on the extruder/heating element and the latest snag below, the onboard/external interface.

As noted in the previous build, part 2, we are probably a good 80%/90% complete at this point. We have some filament melting out, with a few hiccups here and there to mention. We will cover those in part 4. However, Part 2 was successful, Part 3, all parts are working as expected, boards boot as expected, and the new drive and extruder work in tandem as expected. The ‘snafu’ as I mentioned is between the Creality Sonic Pad, printer board and software to connect the two, unfortunately. Images will help clarify rebuild challenges, you’ll see manual updates performed on the printer screen, main board and where we are ‘stuck’ on the Sonic Pad. Two errors to note, Klippy, Sonic Pad physical connection failure and Filament recognition.

Next steps will include reinstall/rebuild Klippy, test/retest print config files, reattach Sonic Pad, replacing extruder tubes, nozzles, e-Steps, home position and more, while adding Wifi Box 2.0. Once we have all this in place, tested/retested, we will capture a quick video summary of the build and active print as those items are ‘ticked off our rebuild list’.

Got to love technology (or not), and office ‘helpers’ Zeus thought he would snooze a little while the troubleshooting session continued throughout the day/night. Same can be said for discovery and testing, no time like now. Some folks call it the ‘grind’… I’ll leave that there for you to imagine. Is it painstakingly difficult, no. Time always has an impact where speed-to-market might be a big deal. It’s always there, you have to be willing to work with what you have… Part 4 coming shortly, where we will cover fine tuning, steps, extrusion, adhesion and whatever else pops up in the meantime.

Internals Internals Internals Internals Internals Internals Internals Internals Internals Internals Internals Internals

Rebuild – In Progress, 2

Assembly & Direct Drive Rebuild, 2

Ender Part 2 Direct Drive

Labwork – Rebuild Part 2

A few steps forward now, we pick up with the bold on extruder assembly and assembly backplate here in part 2.

As noted in the previous build article, part 1, we pick up with the orginal backplate, reusing the backplate while adding in the new assembly hardware. Unfortunately, the new OEM plate was incompatible with the setup I have, so, we’ll harvest the new wheels, screws/tightening washers, bolts and spacers where I can. A quick fit, a dryfit of all the screws, spacers and wheels, placement of the bracket, probe (black, narrow plastic with probe), side fans (yellow and blue wires) and heating element (heater, heat sink and extruder).

The final fit, be sure to tighten down the wheel screws, fan, drive belts and extruder prior to placing the heating element. Order will matter here, same with the removal of the Bowden drive, brackets and extruder tube. We will harvest some of the old tube to help direct TPU filament into the new direct drive extruder. Finally, we place the extruder fan (red and black wires). At this point, you can unscrew the two top wheels in order to place the new direct drive platform, tighten down and snap in the carriage case (caution hot should be on top).

Next, the direct drive, clip on the tube provided, snip tube after a fitting or two. Do make sure, the fit is proper. The direct drive platform is screwed in from the backside of the plate, installed on the last step. Following a screw down action, you’ll need to connect the direct drive motor to the main ‘line’ by passing the frame platform where the old extruder motor lived (see last couple of images) and place the harvested tube for filament.

Easy right? Part 3 coming shortly, we will cover that tomorrow, we’ve got to replace the heating plate, power on the machine and change the step movement.

Internals Internals 1 Internals 2 Internals 3 Internals 4 Internals 5 Internals 6 Internals 7 Internals 8 Internals 9 Internals 10 Internals 11

Rebuild – Start

Ender Teardown, Rebuild

Unpack - Ender Internals

Labwork – Teardown Part 1

A few steps to crack open the Ender housing, replace extruder wires, internal fan wires, jumpers etc.

Check out the timeline below, quick editorial: Case removal, wires, replace section by section… replace covers. Voila! Step 2, coming shortly, the more difficult portion of the build as we are swapping extruders Bowden to Direct Drive, and back plate swap. Back plates don’t match, we will proceed with a salvaged plate (existing), harvest the plate, add new hardware… shouldn’t be to difficult.

I’ll post another update on the tool set I’ve recently added, Klein driver set… handy multitool to go with the new-ish Tekprem Torx set. Check back shortly as there is more to come in round two!

Internals OEM Wires Jumpers and Terminals Case Fan Wrapped Up - Wires Finish Up Wiring Zip Up The Wires

Assembly Plate

OEM Back Plate

OEM Assembly Back Plate

Tech | Tools – Back Plate

Back plate on the bench…

Quick update, assembly back plate is in hand… unfortunately, I had to push the build back a few days, OEM parts ‘the Achilles heal’. Look for an update this week/weekend as all parts/harvestable parts are in and on the bench. Let the rebuild begin! Questions, comments, may be a little encouragement… leave a comment below. Cheers

Clean Up URLs

URLs Shortener Cleanup

Tech | Tools – Shorternening URLs

Confirmed, URLs out…

An update on URLs (shortener); out. For time sake, we’ve Dropped the shortener code from production. If you want to use such a service, look into Tinyurl… the apps been around for awhile, those of you sharing links, swapping links etc, know most companies have some form of url ‘shortening’, whether that is Amazon or YouTube. Check out this short code via Amazon, scenario: College Kid, lookinhg for a tablet, tablet has been found and would like to share the finds with someone – a.co/d/dBwmxaK, pretty handy link… This is a sliver of the short code game, with a massive ecommerce site such as Amazon. Same for the YouTube share links… Anyhow, at some point, we will circle back to this topic and see if there is something worth investing in…

TPU Driver, Assembly Support Plate and More

New Assembly, Drive Drive Extruder, Support Back Plate and Rail Wheels

Lab Work – Building and Buying Parts On The Supply List

… a few more days folks, a new extruder support plate for the Ender 3 Neo Max is on the way. Not on back order, but awaiting the last piece so the rebuild can commence.

Before the assembly and new direct drive can be upgraded, we found an ‘issue’ with the back support plate (including wheels and bolts) are out of whack. Following the printer ‘meltdown’ a few months back, check out the results of that print here… The final piece in the rebuild is this support back plate. There is to much play, movement, space between the assembly and guide rails. I’m not sure (I don’t recall the play or any movement between the assembly, support plate, wheels and rails). I would think there is no or very little ‘wiggle room’/tolerance in those items. That said, I can almost remove/lift off the assembly housing, extruder and back plate from the guide rails under tension. Third sign, in this case, it was time to replace the support plate, bolts and wheels to ensure an improved upgrade and/or fix.

Anyhow, all the pieces and parts have been removed from the initial purchase. So, for picture sake, we’ve got the frame, base, and guide rails and that’s it. All parts have been removed for the moment. ~3 weeks now, awaiting the OEM support plate. Ultimately, we are looking at a clean rebuild, OEM parts with a few upgrades (direct drive, replacing the Bowden extruder) to allow for TPU, Wood/Bamboo, Carbon, Metal, Organics and more. System upgrades might come later, the goal being more power to compensate for the downforces on the extruder head in the direct dirve case. Caution, there are differences between the Direct-drive and Bowden extruders, obviously advantages and disadvantages for both… maintenance and care being the most complex for the direct-drive variety. The goal with the direct-drive ‘pivot’ is the heat, extrusion pressure, retraction and a much broader range of filament materials. I will stick to the update advantages/disadvantages for the sake of this article. The opposite being the vs. advantages/disadvantages. One more time, more materials, heat, pressure, and variety vs maintenance (a lot of maintenance). I use the break/fix method – parts being less expensive in the printer ecosystem to replace. May not be wise, but sometimes you’ve got to break-it to understand the machine or engineering behind the magic.

Final thoughts, parts help, build yourself a parts bin, part out used and gently used parts to cut-down on out of pocket expenses, learn how to maintain and reuse your gadgets. Don’t forget to fail fast, when working on such equipment… short-term break fix expenses go along way when dealing with 3d printers, drones, computers and more.

TPU Update

New Assembly and Drive Drive Extruder

Creality Extruder, Full Assembly

Lab Work – Bolt On Upgrades

We are updating the extruder, bolt on direct drive upgrade and replacing the Series 3 full assembly body.

PLA is great, TPU might be better. Of course, if you need flexibility over rigidity… this assumes you want to test TPU filament. First, we replace the existing assembly body on the MAX NEO, and bolt on the new extruder to help with the TPU issues*. A little more on the issues, TPU requires*/needs more ‘umph’ to drive the flexible TPU filament through the assembly and out the nozzle. The direct drive helps will ‘refinement’ and focus on pushing and pulling the filament more accurately and more precise. Again, not something that is a *requirement, however, I’ve seen enough test prints now, it’s time to make the switch. So, here is the bolt on solution from Creality for the Ender 3-Series, MAX NEO.

Look for additional photos and mini-clips covering the install shortly. In the meantime, here is a brief unboxing and assembly tear-down. Thanks!

Extruder and Assembly Extruder Bolt On Assembly Body Assembly Body Assembly Body Assembly Body

iPad Mini4 – Screen Swap

Digitizer Screen Swap

iPad Digitizer Swap

Lab Work – Digitizer Replaced

iPad 4 Mini – Digitizer Swap

A glimpse under the hood, check out the iPad Mini 4 screen/digitizer replacement timeline. From tape to power-up, quick 20-30 mins and done. Please note make sure you remove the power flex connector first, and not the screen/digitizer flex connections. We placed a follow up picture in the timeline showing the preferred tools and method when removing those flex connections. Also, the button assembly housing, home button… be precise, caring for that button/button assembly housing and connections will go along way.

  • Packing Tape
  • Heating Element – Water Based, or Heat Gun
  • Pryor triangles
  • Suction Cup/Pry Clamps
  • Tech Screwdriver set
  • Curved Tweezers
  • Pressurized Air
  • Anti-static Wipes

Let us know what your thoughts are, ~20 mins start to finish. If you have issues, trouble or run into a snag. Give us a shout, as we are happy to help!

As usual leave a comment below, let us know what you’re thinking?

iPad Mini4 - Screen Swap iPad Mini4 - Screen Swap iPad Mini4 - Screen Swap iPad Mini4 - Screen Swap iPad Mini4 - Screen Swap iPad Mini4 - Screen Swap iPad Mini4 - Screen Swap iPad Mini4 - Screen Swap

Late ’13 MacBook Pro 15″ Battery Swap

MBP 15″ Swap

MBP '13

Lab Work – MBP Battery Swap

Battery MBP 13 Fix

Quick late ’13 Macbook Pro Battery Swap, let’s take a peek… Take note, we have a 2013 Macbook Pro “15 Retina laptop, new battery (please make sure you have selected the right replacement parts). A Jakemy tool kit, glue release, gloves, safety glasses, glue adhesive and a welding/soldering mat. All useful, bare minimum, glue release, tech screwdriver set and glue adhesive.


Looking for parts? Looking for more detail, check out . IOS certification Apple Certs. And, lastly, have a look at this particular Macbook Pro “15 Retina tear-down via Ifixit MacBook Pro “15 Retina Late ’13 Tear Down

As usual leave a comment below, let us know what you’re thinking?

Macbook Pro Battery Replacement Unscrew, Pull-back battery cover, Pop-off Battery Connection Macbook Pro Battery Replacement - Un-glue Battery process Macbook Pro Battery Replacement - Un-glue Battery process 2 Macbook Pro Battery Replacement - Un-glue Battery process clean up Macbook Pro Battery Replacement Macbook Pro Battery Replacement Macbook Pro

Tool Needs

Tool Needs – Neiko Calipers

Neiko Calipers

Tech | Tools – Calipers

Archive – Neiko Calipers

Handy gadget to have in and around the shop. Make Neiko brand calipers your go to precision measuring tool. Have a set of calipers and looking to replace current stainless calipers? Perhaps Mitutoyo Digimatic Caliper.

Question out to the masses, have a better caliper? Please let me know, kindly share via email Borg2Borg on Github.Borg is used for back-and-forth communication, handy when trying to find a 1947 Model Train part, most of which has been off the market for 30 plus years.

As usual leave a comment below, let us know what you’re thinking?

WORKHORSE – Nokia 3310 3g

Nokia 3310

Gear – Nokia 3310

Backup Phone – Nokia 3310

#Samsung #S10+ lost to the world of damaged goods, to the land of lost ‘warez’ and broken devices. Video helps to explain various issues with the phone… And, yes, that is the flickering screen or what remains as usable screen. Although this is a rarity, got to give #BestBuy a ((** SHOUT OUT **)) not accepting new ‘squad requests’ B.S… However, the device is under warranty, remains under service warranty and that particular coverage extends out beyond 06/21. So time will tell. In the meantime, running the workshop with the old Nokia 3310, relying on a #barebones #3g #workhorse.

In the meantime, Nokia it is… phone backup to follow. Check out the used phone market, lots of choices assuming you know what to buy and not overpay for something out of ‘want’ vs ‘need’. Just saying, in this case we need to go with usability and toughness over latest or new.

As usual leave a comment below, let us know what you’re thinking?

Nokia Replacement 3g Nokia In The Wild